Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Still i cant see any reason why these cars cant get 9L/100k on a trip

Mostly because by the time you are at 110kph, you are slightly on boost. You'd probably be able to achieve 9L/100k or less if you did the entire trip at 80kph or remove the turbo or even just hold the wastegate open somehow. But if you're hunting for better mileage, it's probably time to trade up to a Toyota Prius :(

Mostly because by the time you are at 110kph, you are slightly on boost. You'd probably be able to achieve 9L/100k or less if you did the entire trip at 80kph or remove the turbo or even just hold the wastegate open somehow. But if you're hunting for better mileage, it's probably time to trade up to a Toyota Prius :mellow:

Im not really worried about fuel economy at all, but my old 5.0 injected used to get 10.5/100 and im sure with the technology of the RB25 it should eat that. I might throw it on the dyno and check my A/R's at light throttle and be done with it. I can remember when it was standard i saw 500k's to a tank.

a datalog run from tonight, some light load cruising, heavy load up hills and some quick power runs and the usual plodding around on the streets on light load. use this as reference or purely for entertainment purposes

also attached latest tune, i made 1 more rwkw haha

some of the load areas were too lean (near 5000rpm) no idea how but the airflow table was adjusted accordingly. a few minor cells were adjusted. also corrected my INJ mistake at 3200rpm.

Log_20060207_2123.zip

Copy_of_paulr33_194rwkw_dyno_reupdate.txt

Im not really worried about fuel economy at all, but my old 5.0 injected used to get 10.5/100 and im sure with the technology of the RB25 it should eat that.  I might throw it on the dyno and check my A/R's at light throttle and be done with it.  I can remember when it was standard i saw 500k's to a tank.

Wow, that's the exact same highway mileage my VS 5.0L Commodore got too :D The problem with our (current) cars is (1) they rev higher for the same road speed, and (2) running on boost requires more fuel at the same amount of RPM than it would off boost. So with our early-spooling turbos, it's sucking down more juice than it would be if there was no turbo.

The most I got out of the Skyline was 600km, and filled up to 60L so almost spot on 10L/100km. So that was a tiny bit better than I got on the Commodore. However, that was a standard ECU and boost came on very late, so I think that was the main reason I had it so good. Now I get around just under 11L/100km and I think that's pretty good all things considered. I remember seeing some of the NA boys getting 8 or 9L/100km. Maybe the RB20DET can do that too but I don't expect miracles.

I remember the Commodore being a lot better than I expected when I first took it on holidays. Smaller cars don't get double or triple the old 5.0L's economy on the freeway like they do in the city. The low-down torque helps it a lot.

also attached latest tune, i made 1 more rwkw haha

some of the load areas were too lean (near 5000rpm) no idea how but the airflow table was adjusted accordingly. a few minor cells were adjusted. also corrected my INJ mistake at 3200rpm.

I can't seem to open the dyno chart... it's in a wierd format?

Sorry the log file is a datalogit log file and the dynoreupdate is the datalogit tune file and not a dyno run sheet sorry. I had rename it from .dat to .txt as the forums insist on blocking pointless file extensions

Sorry the log file is a datalogit log file and the dynoreupdate is the datalogit tune file and not a dyno run sheet sorry. I had rename it from .dat to .txt as the forums insist on blocking pointless file extensions

How do we see your file?

Just completed a full tank using Boost 98 including a run upto Bendigo and back. Didn't really give it a hard time. 454k's for 54 L or 11.9L/100 or 23.7mpg in the old book. Not bad considering i run a HKS 2535 turbo with over 240rwkw at the wheels on 20psi.

I still reckon i can get more out of it with a bit more fine tuning.

For that power it's pretty damn good. But yeah these cars are basically a small 6 so you should get better consumption than a ford or holden 6. Gear ratios arent as good for fuel economy though. Need a 6 speed to drop the revs in top...

On the highway I would think you would be able to get under 10L/100km. I can get around that but not much better.

Robo - what did you do with your 2530?  Did it boost up as fast as the stock turbo?

Sold the 2530 and bought a 2535. Yes it boosted up nice and early, i think i had over 15psi at 3000rpm, i have a dyno boost chart around somewhere. Not a bad little turbo for some super strong midrange. Ran 12.5 in it.

Whats the street price for a 2530 2nd hand you think?

So it must boost the same if not earlier than the stocko??

12.5 ain't bad!!

Anywhere between $1000-$1500 for a 2530 turbo

Comes in nice an early. The turbo is virtually the same size as the stocky except for roller bearings.

12.5 is good for a street car, you wont loose too many races.

guys, light load \ cruising in my car at 80kmph and 100kmph is the range of cells N04 - N07 and P03 - P06

What AFR's should I be aiming at here?

Also, on full load, what afrs should I be looking at?

What about half load? Like half onto boost.... 13's?

I am not really sure. The tuner had more car for 3 hours and made stuff all changes. Think I might just tune it myself from now and on...

for 80km and 100km i aimed for dead on 14.7

it was only on light load i aimed for around 15 or a little lower

on full load it should be dead on 12 12.5 ish

im only going off what ive read around there and on google etc, certainly not a "tuners" perspective

for 80km and 100km i aimed for dead on 14.7

it was only on light load i aimed for around 15 or a little lower

on full load it should be dead on 12 12.5 ish

im only going off what ive read around there and on google etc, certainly not a "tuners" perspective

Did you enable the 02 sensor feedback function?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.
    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
×
×
  • Create New...