Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a link in my car was in there when i got it few shops have told me to piss it off if i want 200rwkw

last tune it got a shit 140rwkw on stock boost

my next goal is like 185rwkw on 11psi with new Dumps and hi flow cat mods r

Link computer

PWR front Mount

K & N pod

cat back Exhaust 3" with 1 box

Had Aftermarket BOV took it off due to defect feels a little more laggy

If links r ok where the best Shop to get it tuned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79922-how-shit-r-link-computers/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with Link ECUs. The tuner is the primary factor in how the car will run with an aftermarket ECU, not the ECU itself (unless it is a really limited one). They're used everywhere in NZ, so I'm sure the computer is fine. I'd head to Sydney.

I had a Link in a blown celica 10 years ago and it was shit. Their customer support was so pathetic that an australian distributer i bought it through ceased his dealings with them and refused to sell them.

I'm sure alot has improved in 10 years, but it's a case of "once bitten - twice shy" for me....

im running a link with my rb25, i think they are a great computer if you have a good tuner. my was tuned by tim sheather of electronic automotive at epping victoria. i personally would go with someone who is a good tuner and go with the ecu they recommend purely from a convenience stand point, ; ie no good getting a link if there is no one out your way that can tune them.

links are great running one in the r33 gtst and it finr had it tuned by AVO in melbourne the main Ausie supplyer and they are great i got 205Kw a the wheels on stock turbo and have been running for three years its great

I have personally had both a power fc and now a link and i would have to say from my experience i much prefer the link although that is for my setup so different things suit different cars. Your main problem would be the people you got the advice from don't know how to use them. I'd head down to Sydney as there are are few shops here that are good with them.

Care to elaborate, or at least point to some supporting evidence?

Cheers,

Lucien.

well... If people read the difference between I wouldn't have to. Also, just because a tuner is shit, or doesn't know how to tune a link, doesn't mean they are shit, and you run all over the internet trying to tell everyone that.

ok.

Thinks the link has over Powerfc -

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

My advice, keep the link, get a tuner that knows what he's doing. There is a Tuner here in Mackay that specialises in Links, seen his work, he's tuned lots of 300rwkw+ cars, and guess what? He even tuned my PowerFC with the hand controller, and got 210rwkwn 420 nm torque, with it being a stock turbo, stock motor, FMIC and full exhaust.

I good tuner will never say something is shit, just because they don't know how to use it properly.

well... If people read the difference between I wouldn't have to. Also, just because a tuner is shit, or doesn't know how to tune a link, doesn't mean they are shit, and you run all over the internet trying to tell everyone that.

No point getting defensive, I was honestly after your opinion. Pointing to the paper specs is not very helpful as they tell you nothing about what its actually like to use.

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

What about cold start, aircon, etc etc? Are all of these accounted for out of the box or do they have to be tuned? Some of those features are available in various forms of PFC (Pro / D-Jetro) or through addons, and its debatable how useful others are.

Lucien.

I had a link running my rb20 (t3/4, cooler, 3", etc) and it ran very well, although fuel economy was pretty poor, prob due more to my right foot tho....

I loved how it ran on a map sensor, NEVER back fired, stalled, or anything, and that was running either standard BOV, aftermarket BOV, or no BOV (tried 'em all).

Then, when i did an rb25 conv. i used the link on that too, which seemed ok, cold start was always a bit of a prob tho, it would constantly rev at 1000-1100rpm even when warm. Same deal as above with the map sensor.

Not sure about air-con, as the condenser was ripped out because of cooler piping.

I had alot of workshops tell me that they were shit, ended up at AVO who did as good a job as they could. I never tuned it for max power (sold now), just tuned to be driven (stock psi) after the conversion.

As stated already, they're VERY common over in NZ, and if tuned correctly, will stand up against most mid range ECU's.

But, having said all that, i've 'heard' that u cant really beat the power fc 4 an rb25.... choice is yours.

Thinks the link has over Powerfc -  

Link Has Knock control

Link has Launch Control

Link uses the STANDARD boost solinoid on the R33's as a fully fledged electronic boost controller

Link comes with all the gear to plug straight into a laptop

Link ECU can have a MAFless tune

Link ECU has MANY more tunable options.

The link plus also has anti lag, thermo fan control, intercooler water spray control, 3 stage shift light, boost cut, maps that allow tuning to 10,000rpm not 7000rpm like most ECU's. There is more in the ECU but i cant remember them all

GRACER makes 510kw at all 4 with a link and it drives perfectly so they cant be that bad ;):) We (Advan) use heaps of them.... we have about 15 of them getting about Sydney now installed in everything from MX5's and Mazda Familia GTR's to all models of GTR Skylines..... give us a call on 9647 1326 to dicuss getting your car tuned

The link plus also has anti lag, thermo fan control, intercooler water spray control, 3 stage shift light, boost cut, maps that allow tuning to 10,000rpm not 7000rpm like most ECU's. There is more in the ECU but i cant remember them all

GRACER makes 510kw at all 4 with a link and it drives perfectly so they cant be that bad :):) We (Advan) use heaps of them.... we have about 15 of them getting about Sydney now installed in everything from MX5's and Mazda Familia GTR's to all models of GTR Skylines..... give us a call on 9647 1326 to dicuss getting your car tuned

heheh I knew there were more features, thanks for adding them. Our tuner in mackay loves them.

Apexi PowerFc Standards are just an easy way to make a bit of power, you want to make alot, and have the tunability, get a link, or something different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...