Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have a R32 GTS-T, i am trying to find out what to do next my mods are as follows:

pod

wolf 3D

GT30 ballbearing 650hp

hks fmic

fuel reg

3" exhuast

injectors i think about 500cc not sure

45mm waste gate

h/D clutch excedy

Currently the car is running 16psi and i am yet to do the fuel pump which is getting done soon at the moment i have 210rwkw just wondering after fuel pump what sort of internal work i need to do enable me to turn the boost up and start getting some good figures i want to keep everything that i have. Do i need to open the engine up and say some forged piston and rods? Not sure what needs to be done i have heard that you can just put the RB25 bottom half of the engine to replace the RB20 is that right, and help would be great and what sort of prices am i looking at Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81244-where-do-i-start-with-internals/
Share on other sites

Forget about cracking open the engine if your making 210rwkws. Forged pistons, rods etc wont mean you make more power...

If you want more power id be having a look at why a 650HP turbo is struggling to make 300rwhp. If you serisouly want to make anything near what a 650hp turbo is capable of delivering, then id be starting to look at a bigger RB engine.

But id say you dont need to replace anything to make more power, by the sounds of what you have the thing should be able to happily make 250rwkws at sensible boost levels and std engine internals, something isnt quite right if your making 210rwkws

ok well maybe he ment it might make 650 if i high flowed it not sure not really fused i cant use that much anyway with the standard 2L all my mods didn't cost me anything as he got done by the EPA and had to get rid of it all and get standard gear. He had no money and i hit the jack pot getting his turbo, dump pipe,45mm waste gate, fuel reg, catch can, bigger injectors all i had to add was the wolf 3D and give him all my standard gear i jumped from 108rwkw to 210rwkw with only paying $1900 for parts not bad ha

++++

Greetings All.

Could i be possible the turbo is sick? Shaft play? Damaged compressor/turbine??

Also, Arnt GT-30 Turbos rated at around 550HP...?? (Non ball baring core night not help??)

What are the turbo specs?

Cheers,

--Tonba

++++

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...