Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

The other night (private roads of course) I was pushing my car (s14)

I noticed that in 3rd gear at 5k rpm it sempt to no longer really accelerate.

It sempt like it wouldnt go any faster, what could this be?

note: car is stock therefore boost problems shouldnt really be existent.

Is there anything that I can do to make it more efficient at higher engine speeds?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81257-why-is-my-car-holding-back/
Share on other sites

Dee 33 It kind of felt like the extra revs werent giving any power. It was sitting at 5k rpm (and wouldnt go any higher) going up a hill at 140 in 3rd gear, so MAYBE it was to do with the slope.

I didn't put it in 4th because there wasnt enough room to safely slow down

Its the local 200sx s14, not the jap one

Abo bob Yep, the whole car is stock - I dont know whether to do it up (with and exhuast and boost controller) as it costs $$$$ to do properly.

Is it worth chucking on a 3inch turbo back? and getting an electronic boost controller?

i had this problem in my car a while back(s13) but it was in several gears...

i changed the clutch, cleaned the pod filter works fine....

if it only happens at a certain speed..then its prolly a limiteror other reason

breathing and boost restrictions usually happen at the same rmp, through different gears

I was testing my newly arrived R32 GTR the other night, also on private roads by chance(maybe we were on the same road ;) )

I had no such problems thats for sure, 3rd revved out nicely, as did 4th. Come to think of it, I think 5th gave a good showing as well. What limiter?

What kind of hill are we talking about? A slight rise, or a mountain pass? You could just be at the limit of your cars pulling capabilities.

With regards to the mods to your car, they are two of the best mods you can do to any turbo car. Have a look around, you'll be able to find plenty of suppliers on the forums, both local and importers to provide such mods.

the problem is you only got a 2 litre donk...... nah just kidding,

give the car some good tlc and eliminate the obvious things off your list like, oil change, clean pod filter etc etc..... once the simple things have been checked and it's still giving you problems, then it's time to head to a mechanic, unless your mechanically inclined....

What kind of hill are we talking about? A slight rise, or a mountain pass? You could just be at the limit of your cars pulling capabilities.

thats what i would be guessing, aren't sr20's low revving engines? I haven't driven many, but thats what i'm thinking

i'd say if you wanted it be pulling still at those revs then you should've bought a skyline, feel free to correct me if i'm wrong though

Is there anything that I can do to make it more efficient at higher engine speeds?
my thoughts: if it's a stock car you probably just ran out of breath - swap the exhaust at least and the filter for a high flow panel or a pod? how steep was the hill. if you were going up a fairly decent hill than you would've been putting more of a load on the engine than if you were cruising along a flat stretch of road.

Its a hill that climbs for a good kilometer or two.

It starts at the bottom of a valley, so initially its quite steep and it takes ages to be back on flat land. I started hitting 5k rpm when it was about halfway from being back on flatness. It was really weird because it wouldnt rev any further but was nowhere near the limiter

I was driving normally down the valley, once i got to the bottom, I chucked it into fourth and it started boosting a bit, so i thought sweet, chucked it 3rd, it launched for a bit, once it got to 140 it wouldnt go anymore

so it had only been under boost for about a minute max before it started to hold back

I have seen this before on a dyno, problem found to be a boost leak

I dont know if it could be a boost leak, I take care of my car, then again you could be right. I change the oil every 5000, and then a mechanic looks at it all over and tells me any problems, the gaskets of the turbo were replaced but it shouldnt be leaking now. However, mechanics can be scams

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...