engine oil!

[hanyou]

ok just a question has anyone used 'ELF' oil (the one in large blue bottle) im thinking of using that instead of motul 300v as its cheaper and ive heard its about the same and its used in the F1.. any comments?

[hanyou]

anyone?

[MANWHORE]

F1 doesn't use the same oil of course. ELF 10w50 is about $55 for 5L.That is similar in price to the motul 9100 5w40. I'd say that they would be similar quality.

I've never used it , but I have heard good things about it.

[hanyou]

hehe yeah i kno i meant they use elf in f1 lol. i bought it today got 5w40.. it was 59 from autobarn.. havnt actually turned on car yet my exuahst is apart

[DOUGMO]

I Use This Oil In My Car,

Alot Better Than The Oil That Was

In IT When I Got It,

Turbo Spools Quicker And

Still Looks Good After A Couple

Of Thousand Kays

[mass_iv]

just a quick question, might sound stupid but i never found out how much oil you actually have to put into an rb25t? does anyone know how much oil is recommended?

[ECR033]

just a quick question, might sound stupid but i never found out how much oil you actually have to put into an rb25t? does anyone know how much oil is recommended?

I usually use just over 4L when I change my oil (including oil filter).

[someonestolecc]

I too would like to know about ELF excellium. I saw it up at the local oil n filter garage and they had Beau Yates' drift australia rexxie there as a promo.

The rep reckoned it's the same level as motul 8100 but $10 cheaper.

To be honost I'm not fussed about saving $10 on an oil change cos it's the stuff keeping my engine alive.

On the other hand if ELF is better or the same as motul and they're likely to stay easily available and a reliable supply I'll make the switch as I'm keen on ELF's racing heritage (although that's probably got no impact on the oil I'm getting but hey it makes me feel fuzzy).

Any thoughts anyone?

just a quick question, might sound stupid but i never found out how much oil you actually have to put into an rb25t? does anyone know how much oil is recommended?

A bottle of oil is 5L - you won't need more than that. To get it right just use the dipstick

[MANWHORE]

I've found that my rb25 takes about 4.5 L when I change the oil filter too. If I don't change the oil filter, then it takes about 4.2-3 L.

The cheapest price that I can buy motul 8100 for is $52 by buying them in bulk. I have never found ELF at less than $55.

I have used 8100 ever since I got the car, and it has held oil pressure well, does not get black by 5000ks (only medium brown) and is not too expensive considering oil + filter costs around $60 (a garage will charge you about $80 for a change using their shit oil). So I stick with the motul.

[hanyou]

yeah i found the elf brings boost earlier so far i rekon its better then motul 300v 10w40... im using 5w40.. probaly cuz its cheaper lol

[GTR032]

i run the elf in mine..paid about $48 for the 5litres..good stuff!

[Beer Baron]

WTF?!!! your new oil brings on the boost faster??? I would love to see that. BTW are you sure you had motul 300V in there? i only ask as 4 litres of 300v is $100 and in my experience would be the best oil i have used.

[Sydneykid]

does not get black by 5000ks

That's not a good thing, it could be argued holding colour is in fact a bad thing. Oil has a detergent action, as well as lubricating, it cleans the components it touches. So if the oil stays clean, either the engine isn't "dirty" (unlikely) or the oil is lacking in detergent quality.

[DOUGMO]

if the oil that you drained out of the

engine is thicker than the replacement

oil it will let the turbo spin more freely,

hence, boost quicker

[hanyou]

WTF?!!! your new oil brings on the boost faster??? I would love to see that. BTW are you sure you had motul 300V in there? i only ask as 4 litres of 300v is $100 and in my experience would be the best oil i have used.

yeah i had motul 300v chrono in. its about 89bux at autobarn for 4L. and yeah it seems heaps better wid elf... then again i havnt changed my oil in like 8500kms let alone the oil filter lol.. and yes im pretty sure its boosting faster then usual..

[MANWHORE]

Hi Sydneykid

You're quite experienced, so can you please tell me more about oil going black?

This is what i've noticed by doing some tests. If you put engine oil in a beaker, and heat it up really hot, it starts to smoke and burn. After a spirited drive, I also notice that a bitta smoke comes outta the engine on all cars (I've tried this on 4 cars).

I was under the impression that the going black was due to the constant heating/cooling/reheating which changed the chemical composition of the oil rather than the 'detergents' acting to scrub carbon from the engine?

your thoughts please?

[lwells]

WTF?!!! your new oil brings on the boost faster??? I would love to see that.

:werd:

I've got an energy polarizer he might be interested in.

[Sydneykid]

Hi Sydneykid

You're quite experienced, so can you please tell me more about oil going black?

This is what i've noticed by doing some tests. If you put engine oil in a beaker, and heat it up really hot, it starts to smoke and burn. After a spirited drive, I also notice that a bitta smoke comes outta the engine on all cars (I've tried this on 4 cars).

I was under the impression that the going black was due to the constant heating/cooling/reheating which changed the chemical composition of the oil rather than the 'detergents' acting to scrub carbon from the engine?

your thoughts please?

I am not a chemical engineer, so please excuse me if I don't get into the science. We regularly send our oil (out of the race cars) to Castrol for analysis, they report back on;

1. The condition of the oil itself, whether it has retained its lubricating qualities or it has broken down and is no longer lubricating. This tells us if we are using the right oil/viscosity for the loadings the engine carries in the races. And whether or not we are running it at the right temperature (ie; the oil cooler is doing its job).

2. The contaminents in the oil, lots of possibilities here. High levels of unburnt hydrocarbons are a sign of too rich fuel mixture or leaking injectors. Burnt hydrocarbons are a sign of leaking valve stem seals (particularly exhaust). Glycol is a sign of a leaking head gasket. Bearing material is a sign of worn bearings. Aluminium is sign of worn/cracked pistons. Cast iron from cracked block etc etc

The bottom line for us is we don't get reports back with issues in #1 that would indicate we are "cooking" the oil. If it is discoloured, it is because of #2, mostly due to the burnt hydrocarbons that get into the oil from the valve stem seals, past the rings etc.

My previous comment was based on the posts to date that indicate no one was using low quality oil that is likely to suffer from excessive loading or temperature. Hence any discolouration was as a result of contaminents, with detergent action arguably being the difference when all other things are equal, ie; the same engine with different (but still high quality) oils.

Hope that clarifies:cheers:

[MANWHORE]

Yep, It does. I haven't had my car for very long. The compliance shop put in some castrol semi synth oil, which was probably middle of the range stuff. After about 5000 ks, the oil was the same colour as the motul 8100.

I have not used another top of the range oil in the rb 25.

Perhaps it would be beneficial for sau if people could list:

1. what brand and 'model' of oil they use

2. what colour the oil was after x number of ks.

3. the type of driving done durin the ks

[Cubes]

Off topic a little.

I've recently moved to Castrol 10w60 over Motul 8100 5w40.

The left over 5w40 (~700ml) I used to throw in an old Jonny Walker bottle.

Shaking it used to easily turn it to froth.

The Castrol 10w60 on the other hand is really hard to get air in to it.

You get the few little bubbles but it doesn't turn to froth like the Motul gear.

It is also noticable thicker.

With regards to the colour of the oil, I find its always dark.