Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently we have checked a few stock turbo's as well as one after market turbo and noticed the flange of the turbo is smaller than the flange of the

exhaust manifold both stock and bling staino ones. So the gases rushing out fo the engine through the manifold hit a big edge of the turbo flange. Not good. Might we worth checking and grinding out and match porting if you are changing turbo's or having it off for any work.

See the pics as we found 2 to 3 mm gap. We found this by simply doing a test not suspecting anything and actually suprised to see how bad the overlap was. We found this problem by carefully tracing out the turbo flange and cutting out of card board and laid it over the exhaust manifold and it became very obvious. With this edge jutting out if would make a difference to flow as would create a lot of turbulence especially at high revs.

To fix this all you need to do is remove the turbo exhaust housing and mark out and match port to suit. FREE POWER.

Will check GTR turbo's asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81792-turbo-flange-over-lap/
Share on other sites

I should ask James from Abrasive Flow as he match ports to head and turbo and extrude hones the GTR exhaust manifolds and mathces to turbo. I know he opens up the exhaust manifolds a bit going into the turbo.

It is Pete. The manifold has a lip that turns the flow and finishes in a sharp edge. Not a good situation for flow but they maust have had some reason. Anyway it's probably just for stock boost, and would be an impediment at greater boost levels/exhaust velocities.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...