Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers fellas the smash shop told me that it was a type M bumber and that they are hard to find, and that it would be faster and cheaper gettin the pranged one fixed. Is this true?

Thanks

Chris

I wouldnt think so. Type M's are quite common.

Have you been through the for sale section? There was a yellow 33 in there a while ago that had been written off from the side, front bar should still be good if he hasnt sold it yet.

As for getting it fixed, I would get a quote or two + look at the price of getting an aftermarket one supplied + painted. It may work out cheaper... panel beaters have a tendancy to bend you over backwards :D

Thanks Ryan, Its all getting fixed under insurance. But I am lookin into my options, what would be faster and give a better finish. I dont car how much it costs to get fixed, cause the premium will still be the same.

Cheers

Chris

Well it will most likely come out better if your insurance company pays the bill, and if not then atleast it will be easier.

But you should get some private quotes first...even if its not cheaper, it saves getting bad insurance history (more money down the line) & you wont have to involve the police in it (its drift damage right? :D)

When I had a smash (only really affected the bonnet), I ended up getting it fixed for less than what it would have cost me to make a claim...and I didnt have to make a police report which was good as the smash was caused by me being stupid.

The way I did it was to ring around some "performance" panel beaters...you know the ones that only deal with tripped out paint jobs, huge wings & cars that ride 1cm above the ground.

They usualy have left over bonnets & front gaurds laying around as ppl have put carbon fibre ones on or something & left their old one.

May not work out, but if you havent claimed yet - might be worth looking into ;)

Get the price of a NEW bumper and reo from Nissan Australia. This price will be high, but insurance is paying for the damage.

Get a price for a aftermarket bar, that you like, as it will most probably be cheaper than a genuine new bar, the insurance will most probably agree to buy aftermarket.

Myself, i prefer a moded std bar. These are much stronger and will not crack/break the first time you scrap it or hit a curb.

Thanks for the advise guys. The Insurance company didn't want a bar of putting on a new bar. The bastards made the smash repair bloke send it off to get it fixed. But they did a good job, looks like new. Unfortunatly the assessor had to give it a final inspection and therefore I couldn't get it modded cause that would be classed as a "modifaction" to the car. I am very pissed off at Just Car at the moment cause they went the cheapest way out.

Cheers

Chris

Sorry to say; That's why i will never go to Just Car, it states in their policy that they will pick the repairer or repairs, and they will never pay to get car back to original. The bar may look fine, but it is now very weak where the cracks have been joined, have a close look at the joins (rear of bar), are they plastic welded or just glued? I would have never accepted the bar to be repaired, as the plastic would have fine hair line cracks and over time these will come through the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...