Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got my old front pads (WGNC34 series 1) sitting in a box at home so can't measure from here. Those ones displayed look about right, they are quite a large pad. I couldn't get DB1250 pad here in NZ and they supplied me with a TRW GDB1000 - perfect match to the profile of 1250 just missing the squealer tangs. They are not as dust making as the Remsa pads they replaced.

I fitted Bendix DB1170 when switching to GTST fronts. They squealed like buggery. Replaced them today with RDB1170SM GP MAX. Just as bad. Now what???????????

Also today got another set of GTST for the 25G. They will go on soon as I figure out what pads to get.

have u got brake shims on the back of all pads? if so have u put copper grease or anything in between the pad and shims?

I have the shims but no grease Have to get and order the shim sets from the USA.

maybe try putting the copper grease or what ever in between and see how u go. putting the grease just on the pads a lone with out shims have quietened mine down a lot, but still squeals every now and then.

maybe try putting the copper grease or what ever in between and see how u go. putting the grease just on the pads a lone with out shims have quietened mine down a lot, but still squeals every now and then.

I'll try it

Got my set of shims from the USA today, greased them up and fitted them after work.

Hopefully 'Operation Big Success' and my wife wont cringe at the idea of taking my car somewhere.

Also picked up a set of R34 rears brakes, hubs and all this afternoon.

I wont put them on until I can have a look at what line changes need to be made.

Anyone know what i can do with a pair of R34 hubs?

Thought of selling them to a silvia guy but there kind of useless without brakes....

Hose reel with a rim is all i can think of.

I fitted Bendix DB1170 when switching to GTST fronts. They squealed like buggery. Replaced them today with RDB1170SM GP MAX. Just as bad. Now what???????????

Now buy a decent pad, and don't buy cheap trade servicing rubbish. RDA pads are made in China, and to a very low price point.

Short of that, there are several stick on shim kits available to suit those calipers that will make a huge difference (like the Project Mu ones, $65 for the set), but I'd start with a half decent pad first like HPX or Remsa. If noise if your primary concern, I'd go the Remsa, which are a high performance European pad (rated to 650 degrees, or 100 degrees higher than Bendix Ultimate) but have a lot noise reducing features like soft shims, relief grooves, and side shamfers. To suit those 4 pots are $89 for the set.

Finally got around to fitting new rear rotors and pads (both TRW) to my NM35 Stagea, was a fairly easy job once I'd loosened the caliper bolts. My shuddering in the steering wheel that has plagued me for ages seems better although have only been around the block to make sure it still stops as haven't got the time for bedding in or a decent run. Cost me a lot more for the parts than it did for the front rotors that seems weird to me.

Does anyone know how to adjust the footbrake as it doesn't seem to be working as well?

The Bendix pads were just over $100,The RDB $45, and they are a bit better than the Bendix. I dont have an issue with the noise as, when I get to drive the Stag, it is usually for 40-50 Km trips.Whereas Mrs66 only drives about 3 Km to the Gallery and back. So maybe it is caused by temperature and low speed

as in ur brake pedal or foot pedal for handbrake? did u re-adjust it at the rear rotors when u replaced the rotors? there is an adjuster u need to turn to spread the linings

As in the foot pedal that does the handbrake, I had to loosen it to get the new rotors on using the adjuster thingy behind the rotors but seems its too loose, my question is how do i tighten it ? can i do it without taking the rotors off, like from the pedal end?

There will be a little grommet in the disc face where the whell mounts against, remove that and tighten the drum shoe up until it just locks. Then back it off 5-6 clicks and your done. Abviously do both sides the same and with the handbrake off.

Anyone looking for cheap pads/rotors, there's a kit going on eBay at the moment for $155 posted.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-STAGEA-import-M35-Disc-Brake-Rotor-Pad-Pack-/280777240717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415fa0b08d#ht_500wt_1180

No idea about the quality - I imagine not that decent, but if it's enough to get you by until a decent upgrade it's a cheap way of going about it!

There will be a little grommet in the disc face where the whell mounts against, remove that and tighten the drum shoe up until it just locks. Then back it off 5-6 clicks and your done. Abviously do both sides the same and with the handbrake off.

Is an S1 similar???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...