Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got my old front pads (WGNC34 series 1) sitting in a box at home so can't measure from here. Those ones displayed look about right, they are quite a large pad. I couldn't get DB1250 pad here in NZ and they supplied me with a TRW GDB1000 - perfect match to the profile of 1250 just missing the squealer tangs. They are not as dust making as the Remsa pads they replaced.

I fitted Bendix DB1170 when switching to GTST fronts. They squealed like buggery. Replaced them today with RDB1170SM GP MAX. Just as bad. Now what???????????

Also today got another set of GTST for the 25G. They will go on soon as I figure out what pads to get.

have u got brake shims on the back of all pads? if so have u put copper grease or anything in between the pad and shims?

I have the shims but no grease Have to get and order the shim sets from the USA.

maybe try putting the copper grease or what ever in between and see how u go. putting the grease just on the pads a lone with out shims have quietened mine down a lot, but still squeals every now and then.

maybe try putting the copper grease or what ever in between and see how u go. putting the grease just on the pads a lone with out shims have quietened mine down a lot, but still squeals every now and then.

I'll try it

Got my set of shims from the USA today, greased them up and fitted them after work.

Hopefully 'Operation Big Success' and my wife wont cringe at the idea of taking my car somewhere.

Also picked up a set of R34 rears brakes, hubs and all this afternoon.

I wont put them on until I can have a look at what line changes need to be made.

Anyone know what i can do with a pair of R34 hubs?

Thought of selling them to a silvia guy but there kind of useless without brakes....

Hose reel with a rim is all i can think of.

I fitted Bendix DB1170 when switching to GTST fronts. They squealed like buggery. Replaced them today with RDB1170SM GP MAX. Just as bad. Now what???????????

Now buy a decent pad, and don't buy cheap trade servicing rubbish. RDA pads are made in China, and to a very low price point.

Short of that, there are several stick on shim kits available to suit those calipers that will make a huge difference (like the Project Mu ones, $65 for the set), but I'd start with a half decent pad first like HPX or Remsa. If noise if your primary concern, I'd go the Remsa, which are a high performance European pad (rated to 650 degrees, or 100 degrees higher than Bendix Ultimate) but have a lot noise reducing features like soft shims, relief grooves, and side shamfers. To suit those 4 pots are $89 for the set.

Finally got around to fitting new rear rotors and pads (both TRW) to my NM35 Stagea, was a fairly easy job once I'd loosened the caliper bolts. My shuddering in the steering wheel that has plagued me for ages seems better although have only been around the block to make sure it still stops as haven't got the time for bedding in or a decent run. Cost me a lot more for the parts than it did for the front rotors that seems weird to me.

Does anyone know how to adjust the footbrake as it doesn't seem to be working as well?

The Bendix pads were just over $100,The RDB $45, and they are a bit better than the Bendix. I dont have an issue with the noise as, when I get to drive the Stag, it is usually for 40-50 Km trips.Whereas Mrs66 only drives about 3 Km to the Gallery and back. So maybe it is caused by temperature and low speed

as in ur brake pedal or foot pedal for handbrake? did u re-adjust it at the rear rotors when u replaced the rotors? there is an adjuster u need to turn to spread the linings

As in the foot pedal that does the handbrake, I had to loosen it to get the new rotors on using the adjuster thingy behind the rotors but seems its too loose, my question is how do i tighten it ? can i do it without taking the rotors off, like from the pedal end?

There will be a little grommet in the disc face where the whell mounts against, remove that and tighten the drum shoe up until it just locks. Then back it off 5-6 clicks and your done. Abviously do both sides the same and with the handbrake off.

Anyone looking for cheap pads/rotors, there's a kit going on eBay at the moment for $155 posted.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-STAGEA-import-M35-Disc-Brake-Rotor-Pad-Pack-/280777240717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415fa0b08d#ht_500wt_1180

No idea about the quality - I imagine not that decent, but if it's enough to get you by until a decent upgrade it's a cheap way of going about it!

There will be a little grommet in the disc face where the whell mounts against, remove that and tighten the drum shoe up until it just locks. Then back it off 5-6 clicks and your done. Abviously do both sides the same and with the handbrake off.

Is an S1 similar???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...