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well my bottom end died the other week. decided on a full rebuild

what parts do i need? (i dont want what isnt needed)

i was also looking at getting some performance upgrades while the motor was out

im looking at getting the following pistons:

ARIAS PISTONS - Suit bore size of 86.5mm. Pistons are 20thou over

Turbo:

im looking at getting HKS 2530's

will i need an aftermarket computer like power FC?

will i need biger injectors?

will i need bigger fuel pump?

will it be ok to drive at 12 psi using standard fuel pump and injectors?

because i wont be raising the boost for a while until the motor is run in.

what else is needed? (what else SHOULD be done now while the motor is out)

any help would be great

thanks,

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Guest DIRTgarage
well my bottom end died the other week. decided on a full rebuild

what parts do i need? (i dont want what isnt needed)

i was also looking at getting some performance upgrades while the motor was out

im looking at getting the following pistons:

ARIAS PISTONS - Suit bore size of 86.5mm. Pistons are 20thou over

Turbo:

im looking at getting HKS 2530's

will i need an aftermarket computer like power FC?

will i need biger injectors?

will i need bigger fuel pump?

will it be ok to drive at 12 psi using standard fuel pump and injectors?

because i wont be raising the boost for a while until the motor is run in.

what else is needed? (what else SHOULD be done now while the motor is out)

any help would be great

thanks,

Always good to run in an engine with a combo that you know works....bad for your new engine trying to sort out new turbo selection/injectors/tune etc...If it was my engine id run it on the same combo it had before it blew (of course finding and fixing the cause of the destruction) so you have a trouble free run-in period. If you are upgrading turbo's then your choice of 2530's is ideal as they have similar flow characteristics of the stock turbo's up until about 12psi as stated.

Guest DIRTgarage
i just thought it would be a good opportunity while the engine was out to do this because it would save money?

not a good idea or????

I just dont want a turbo to blow 2 months down the track..

Great idea...just ensure that you properly run in the engine before doing injectors and so forth...as setting these up can take considerable time and washing the bores of a new engine with fuel may effect it for its life....it prevents proper bedding in of the piston rings. Do the turbos but would only run stock boost until the run-in period is complete.

Great idea...just ensure that you properly run in the engine before doing injectors and so forth...as setting these up can take considerable time and washing the bores of a new engine with fuel may effect it for its life....it prevents proper bedding in of the piston rings. Do the turbos but would only run stock boost until the run-in period is complete.

so do the turbos.. run it in for a while.. then get the other items (fuel pump, injectors, power FC)

yep the car will not be over 11psi during run in... and will be treated carefully for the 1st few 1000 kms.

assuming you want someone to do the work, try researching the places that have a good rep for rebuilt engines. i think pro engines in canberra (a number of SAU posts) and advan in sydney are two from memory. they all have their own way of doing things to some extent because they stick with what they think works. as for turbos etc any good tuner should be able to work with what's on there without risking the engine as ancillaries don't need running in ie if you front with a new engine and 2530s that should not be an issue for them. just make sure that the ancillaries are in good shape so they don't cause problems; buying a used critical ancillary is a risk i wouldn't take with a new engine. the search engine is your friend, there is a lot of info about what to do when you get your rebuild done including what running in oil to use. look for posts by sydneykid as he's shared a lot of info in this in the past.

make sure you do your research - pay for the stuff you need and save your money on the stuff you don't. according to more knowledgeable members of this forum the n1 water pump for example is perhaps not the best for a street car as it was designed to be most effective at sustained high rpm. n1 oil pump differs little from stock except for the pressure relief spring. that said, many people opt for both and i respect their reasons for doing so.

good luck

I just had an engine rebulid at Trojan Imports. I did a few extras, But the usual forged piston's, N1 oil pump, Tomei sump baffle etc....

One thing that was done is replaced the R32 crank with a brand new balanced R33 one. The crank collar as stated earlier is a fixed part of the 33 crank and Far less likely to cause problems as opposed to the collar on the 32. A well known problem for the 32's.

Very happy with the work done....

what are sump baffles? whats the benifit and whats the cost?

i am getting the block bored to fit the new pistons.

also,

would i be better off getting a single turbo conversion?

i just like the idea i only dealing with the one turbo.

i would like boost to come on before 2500 and full boost before 5000rpm.

what turbo should i go for?

this car will be a street car, not a drag car.

would i be better sticking with a twin turbo?

I just had an engine rebulid at Trojan Imports. I did a few extras, But  the usual forged piston's, N1 oil pump, Tomei sump baffle etc....

One thing that was done is replaced the R32 crank with a brand new balanced R33 one. The crank collar as stated earlier is a fixed part of the 33 crank and Far less likely to cause problems as opposed to the collar on the 32. A well known problem for the 32's.

Very happy with the work done....

so even if my crank is fine should i get a 33 gtr one?

what about the con rods?

where do you get all these sorts of parts from?

buy directly from nissan?

thanks,

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