Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There shouldnt be any problems with them at all the engine is near indestructable especially without a turbo.

The only reason I can see to want a non turbo skyline is for looks, so if its an R33 I'd get one with a bodykit or budget for one (roughly 1K to 1.5K) because they look like another family car without one.

The R32 actually looks pretty decent without a body kit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1506227
Share on other sites

The best looking R33 I've seen was a series 1.5 that was slightly lowered running 255 rear tyres on 17" rims. I didn't care to look what size the fronts were. I assume 245's.

Looked awesome. Rather tough looking to be honest.

what is a series 1.5 ?

isnt it just like series 1 and 2 etc? sorry, new to this stuff and keep seeing 1.5 everywhere :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1506341
Share on other sites

I have a r33 NA, and i baught it purly because it was my first car and i couldnt handle a turbo, its still plently fast and keeps up with most things (civic vtir's, integra vtirs) and thats about it... beats the commodores v6's and stuff... I can show you a picture or two of it if you'd like?? Theyre nice to drive and handles and goes better then my mates sr20de silvia

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1506696
Share on other sites

If you must go NA, try to find on of the late R32 GTS that came out with th e R33 NA RB25DE engine. You get the looks and light weight of the r32, with the extra capacity of the r33 engine!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1506912
Share on other sites

If you must go NA, try to find on of the late R32 GTS that came out with th e R33 NA RB25DE engine.  You get the looks and light weight of the r32, with the extra capacity of the r33 engine!

And then if you blow up the bottom end sell it to some lucky user on this forum for there RB25/30 conversion!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1510470
Share on other sites

hey wor wor 2,

My cousin drives a N/A r33 an I can tell you that they do hold their own and are a comfortable ride. I'd also imagine the N/A's would have much better fuel consumption compared to a turbo. The only thing I don't like about them is they come with only 4 wheel studs. So it would be a bit of a hassle to find decent rims if you're looking at some bling.

Seriously though, a stock standard Gts-t isn't that powerful. My 33 has stock turbo etc. and I got used to driving it the day I brought it home from the dealer. I'll get into the modifying game as soon as I can afford it :P

See If you can have a test drive in both a N/A and a turbo and make up your mind. in my opinion, a turbo will be much more rewarding in the end :P If you do go with an N/A R33 make sure it has the RB25DE engine. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1512691
Share on other sites

ha ha series 1.5...

its just a series 1 with some series 2 bits on it. at the end of the day its still a series 1... is a gts with gtr bits on it a gts/r? i don't think so

as for the topic question, there aren't really any inherant problems with the r32's. if you don't want a turbo then that's fine - you still get the looks and handling of the best value-for-money car, just without that punch of power.

as Rhett said, i would look for the R32 GTS25 which is basically a non-turbo R33 engine in the lighter (and better looking in my opinion) R32 shell

best of luck with your decision!

Warren

PS everyone is oing to give their own separate opinions here - no one is right they're just opinions. if you want advice then take it but make the decision yourself re looks and what features you want!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1512731
Share on other sites

I'd also imagine the N/A's would have much better fuel consumption compared to a turbo.

Is this true??

Do an N/A R32 or R33 use less or the same amount of fuel than a Turbo R32/R33??

I have seen fuel consumption but that is only of turbos

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1514090
Share on other sites

you may as well by a commodore if your gonna buy a non turbo skyline, the turbo R33's arent all that powerful that you cant handle them anyways, i got used of mine in a day, and before i got my car the only other turbo skyline i drove was a mate of mines round the block lol, so if you want an R33 or even R32 go turbo, you wont regret it......

unless you start modifying it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1514131
Share on other sites

cars arent all about performance...

there's:

- looks

- comfort

- handling

- social status

- power

- torque

- finances

etc.

otherwise why are we all buying skylines when a VLT for the same price could probably run 11s?

seriously, a NA R32/R33 is a great looking and handling car with good torque and street credability...

be wise who's posts you read and take advice from and those which you know came from a 16 year old keyboard warrier...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1514920
Share on other sites

be wise who's posts you read and take advice from and those which you know came from a 16 year old keyboard warrier...

if your referring to me, i'd be 18 and im not a keyboard warrior, i was just stating my opinion, i believe that if you spent an extra 2 or 3 thousand and bought a turbo variant as opposed to naturally aspirated, you'd have a car that looks as good as it goes...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83276-what-to-get/#findComment-1515206
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...