Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah insurance also depends on how old you are.... me being 18, my R33 gts-t costs me like 2,500 in comp insurance, not so bad on other running costs but, fuels always gonna be expensive.... stamp duty and that goes by how much you payed for the car, not what type of car it is, rego isnt that much either, the only thing you really have to watch out for when buying any skyline is to see if its been thrashed by the previous owner.... i.e take it to an racv inspection place, they'll tell you EVERYTHING right down to theres a spec of gum on the back seat.... coz thats what it said in the report i got back from them, other than that gts-t and that arent that expensive to run compared to some other cars.

I wouldnt buy a car based solely on what a RACV inspection tells you.

The only thing about cars some of those guys know is how to jump start a car and if that doesent work call a tow truck.

As for yearly running costs, u will no doubt start to modify it so whatever you have budgeted for spending that year on the car double or tripple it.

Edited by INASNT
As for yearly running costs, u will no doubt start to modify it so whatever you have budgeted for spending that year on the car double or tripple it.

:lol: so true, also make sure you budget for insurance, be it third party or full comp, try go full comp but, trust me, i found out the hard way, i hada spend 5 gran on a repair bill coz sum lady hit me, and i only had third party :angry: that 5 gran coulda been used for alot better thing than replacing damaged panels :(

Pesonally i think go the 33 and modify it as for fuel it costs me $150-$180 a week and for me to get comp insurance would have been $4,500 PA as i am 17, had to settle for 3rd party $835 PA

I wouldnt buy a car based solely on what a RACV inspection tells you.

The only thing about cars some of those guys know is how to jump start a car and if that doesent work call a tow truck.

As for yearly running costs, u will no doubt start to modify it so whatever you have budgeted for spending that year on the car double or tripple it.

Lol yeah thinking that might happen. If i can stop myself from buying the car soon i could possibly save for a mod or two first, because as soon as i buy it i know im gunna be broke for a while. Just an idea

:lol:  so true, also make sure you budget for insurance, be it third party or full comp, try go full comp but, trust me, i found out the hard way, i hada spend 5 gran on a repair bill coz sum lady hit me, and i only had third party  :angry:  that 5 gran coulda been used for alot better thing than replacing damaged panels  :(

How come you had to pay when she hit you? wouldnt her insurance cover that?

BLK180 - howd you get that job? Did you have to go to uni? Thats sick money for first year but i suppose it depends what you are doing

hey guys great post. one of our family cars is about to pack it in and after years of constant ear bashing my parents are considering buying a skyline. after reading this thrad it looks as though it would cost less to run a week than our commodore. ive spotted an r33 series 2 1996 for sale for just under 23k, 125km, exhaust, sun roof and owned by a skylines australia enthusiastes (so i have some peace of mind) is this figure ok. runs really smoothly. there is also another 96 r33 series 2 selling for 18k, similar specs, sat nav, no sunroof. what are your thoughts?

thanx for any consideration, didnt mean to hijak the thread but since where on the topic of costs..

HOLLY shit! with just third party, rego, plus all maintainace stuff about 150 for me with these prices of petrol.

WOAH!!!! im studying nolonger working. shit who can hook me up with a part time job PLZ!!! i only own my r33 for 3 weeks, took one year off study to work for it.

but by the looks of it, i cant afford to keep her if thats the case :angry:.

hey guys great post. one of our family cars is about to pack it in and after years of constant ear bashing my parents are considering buying a skyline. after reading this thrad it looks as though it would cost less to run a week than our commodore. ive spotted an r33 series 2 1996 for sale for just under 23k, 125km, exhaust, sun roof and owned by a skylines australia enthusiastes (so i have some peace of mind) is this figure ok. runs really smoothly. there is also another 96 r33 series 2 selling for 18k, similar specs, sat nav, no sunroof. what are your thoughts?

thanx for any consideration, didnt mean to hijak the thread but since where on the topic of costs..

Mate dunno bout the 1st one, 23k for a 96 with 125000k's on it? Sounds a bit steep unless its got some other major mods that you havent listed. The second one sounds a bit better, but remember to get it checked out before you buy it

shit ppl... i noticed u all spend a lot on tires!!! i get tyres dirt cheap and I'm talking michellin pilots, pirelli P0s and all the best tires out. $300 whole car with 85% tread and any size I want.

I'm 20 and got myself R32 GTS25T and a new sweet addition R34 GTT.

Was just thinkking today on way to work how expensive it will be to run both cars at once. Will get rid of the R32 as there is just no need for it as I havent driven it for over a month since the R34 came in. Looks nice on my driveway tho hehe.

to be honest, i dont want to think about it

but its a lot

my insurance (comprehensive) is getting better all the time

down under 1000 bux now through suncorp

servicing is probably 1 grand a year if nothing breaks

100km service was 1500 (got a few gaskets and pipes replaced)

tyres are close to 1000 bux a year (300 bux a pop per tyre, hoping to get better life out of them with new suspension)

what ive spend so far on upgrades and replacements

new clutch (650, old one died)

new exhaust, dump pipe and boost controller $1000

another 500 to fit and tune it (new plugs)

then intercooler purchase and install (gtr cooler, custom plenum, relocated pod, piping ($2000)

another 1000 bux f**king around trying to get to run and fitting of boost gauge (NO THANKS TO BRISBANE TURBO AND TUNING FOR THAT WASTE OF MONEY)

purchase of powerfc, powerfc boost controoler, cam gear pulleys, fuel pump

another 2000

havet to man up and now face the cost of getting it all installed

the sooner i get over this car phase the better

new tein suspenion $2000

stereo $4000

shit ppl... i noticed u all spend a lot on tires!!! i get tyres dirt cheap and I'm talking michellin pilots, pirelli P0s and all the best tires out. $300 whole car with 85% tread and any size I want.

I'm 20 and got myself R32 GTS25T and a new sweet addition R34 GTT.

Was just thinkking today on way to work how expensive it will be to run both cars at once. Will get rid of the R32 as there is just no need for it as I havent driven it for over a month since the R34 came in. Looks nice on my driveway tho hehe.

From where?

How come you had to pay when she hit you? wouldnt her insurance cover that?

coz, i was turning right across an intersection, gave way to the two oncoming cars i could see, but she came out of the bp driveway gunned it to get past the lights and smacked into my passenger side door, the coppers wouldnt believe me and my mates but, 1. im drivin a car i technically shouldnt be on my P's, 2. she was in a government car, and 3. the whole situation was f*****, long story short i copped the blame for everything due to it being a right hand turn, she could of fallen from the sky and hit me and im still to blame :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...