Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Umm im not sure how to put this cos i dont know too much about it so i thought id just throw it out there.. I have a t3/t4 (to4e) and its spooling a little too late (5k+) so yeah, i got the car tuned at uas and they suggested changing the exhaust housing on the turbo to allow it to spool a little earlier (4k would be appropriate). Has anyone had experience in this area and would anyone be able to suggest which type of housing would suit my application?? thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83497-changing-exhaust-housing/
Share on other sites

RB20DET? RB25DET?

complete rundown

RB20 det

polished

balanced

strengthened valve springs

had the head machined

copper head gaskets

billett adj cam gears

front mount

pod filter

forged pistons

o-ringed

wallbro 500hp intank pump

GTR injectors

wolf 3D v4 ecu

top mount manifold

catch can

to4e turbo

external wastegate 38mm

turbosmart series2 bov

custom dump

3in exhaust from turbo

i think thats everything

yeah, i understand its not in the league of 'todays' turbos as in response, power pp,lag, but i got it for relatively cheap, and after spending a fair bit on the car i know im kinda bottlenecking it with this turbo..but guys, as we all should know, sometimes our hands are tied and have to make do with what we have..and by any means, bringing on boost 500rms faster is nothing to gawk at. Im just trying to make the most of what i have, thats all, thanks for the response.

here's my educated guess -

Its an RB20 coming on boost at about 5000rpm. Thats gotta be a .86 exhaust housing. Plus the fact the its a dirty old t04e turbo, which will be a roller bearing.

He needs a nice little HKS2530 or something arouind that size, or even a hiflo job of a T3 or t28.

But overall, he needs a turbo with a .63 or smaller exhaust housing and it needs to be a ball bearing turbo.

Now, if you have the money, I'd look at what they have said, a Boost controller with a pneumatic spring or an electronic one to prevent wastegate creep, but I'd also look at either cams or a exhaust cam gear to bring it on earlier again.

My guess it isn't. :mellow:

Clint32 ran a TO4E with a .6 comp cover, 54mm comp wheel, .6 turbine housing and 58mm turbine wheel on his 100,000km' RB20DET.

That didn't get going until 5k.

I've just had a quick look and it made 234rwkw on 16-17psi.

here's my educated guess -

Its an RB20 coming on boost at about 5000rpm. Thats gotta be a .86 exhaust housing. Plus the fact the its a dirty old t04e turbo, which will be a roller bearing.

He needs a nice little HKS2530 or something arouind that size, or even a hiflo job of a T3 or t28.

But overall, he needs a turbo with a .63 or smaller exhaust housing and it needs to be a ball bearing turbo.

Now, if you have the money, I'd look at what they have said, a Boost controller with a pneumatic spring or an electronic one to prevent wastegate creep, but I'd also look at either cams or a exhaust cam gear to bring it on earlier again.

I dont think its that easy. I jumped down an A/R housing size and was surprised i didnt gain more response, sure it got better but he physical difference was huge and the difference in response was about 500-600rpm. The thing could have a huge turbine on it, could be back cut etc, in which case the A/R housing will not do a whole lot.

I could put a 0.48 housing on a T78 and the thing still isnt going to be responsive (not to mention surge)

As for needing to be ball bearing, again i dont agree it needs to be. If i was buying a turbo i would try to make sure it was ball bearing, better durability and improved performance. But ball bearing dont mean squat if the wheels and housings on the turbo aint right. Try my so called truck/plain bearing turbo having the same response as RB20s with 2530/2535s, there is much more to the equation then just the fact that something is plain bearing vs ball bearing etc.

Also i found that housings can get expensive...id live with it for as long as you have to until you can afford a new Garret, they can be had for around $1800, sell the T04E for upwards of $500, rather then spending money on a compromised turbo setup.

LOL..so far two of the better turbo setups on Rb20s on SAU have been plain bearing old school turbos, just well matched ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...