Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MY car in from Japan with so much crap on the paintwork - I've washed it, tried cut and polish, turps, diluted washing powder - and it aint coming off easily.

Same crap on my windscreen, had to use a razor blade to get if off - Obvioulsy can't use a blade on the duco.

It's like caked/set muddy dust. I'm guessing it is from being out in the weather heaps whist in Japan.

How the hell do I get it off ? Is there some sort of industrial stregth stuff I can use that won't harm the paint ? Even the red kitten cut and polish won't get it off.

I don't particularly want to spend big dollars on a detailer or panel beater to buff it out.

Any help would be appreciated.

CHeers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84028-how-to-get-crap-of-my-duco/
Share on other sites

'Mothers Clay bar'! Cant go past it for what you need. Its about $50 from autobarn. Trust me on this it makes your paint smooth as silk and doesnt remove any actual clear coat. Even comes with a polish too. Just grab it and read the instructions on the pack. You can re-use it plenty of times too.

Cheers

id always use a clay bar before gong to cut and polish because a clay bar is a much safer way to remove the build up of unwanted crap on the clear coat, whereas a cut and polish does just that-cuts the top coat very slightly and then polishes it up. Its good but i'd only use it to touch up anything the clay bar didnt get rid of ie: scratches etc

Also sopunds crazy but use a fine steel wool pad to remove crap off the glass. It doesnt damage the glass. If you want try it on a tiny small concealed area first. Make sure you use sum glass cleaner with it though..

Edited by Godzilla32

Clay bar worked a little bit better than cut and polish but still didn't remove all the crap. It's really baked on crap. Wondering what to do next......

I got a McGuiars clay bar - Is the Mother's one better or are they all pretty much the same ?

What about autoglym ???

This is an industrial stregth problem ...... Ahhhh

My painwork will look sooooo good when I remove all the crap

Help ! ! !

Maybe its just my experience with a clay bar, i never found it did much for my paint.

Instead of going for the Kitten red cut and polish, go for the Kitten Black cutting compound, and then use green kitten polish, n then a good wax.

You will be there for a while, it *should* work, did for me. I had heavily oxidised paint and now its pretty sweet in most areas where i didn't go half-arsed.

Mate if this doesnt work ill drive to where you live and clean it myself.....(not really but you get the point)

DRI-WASH !!!!!!

i swear by this stuff.....with my life

cant say much more so...

http://driwash.com.au/index.html

(but prices seem higher than im paying)

anyway best of luck tell me how you go

any inquires PM me

Ciao

RellikZephyr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...