Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What about a 265/35/18 then? i just wanted to get a wider tire so the rim doesnt stick out futher than the tyre wall and it wont look like the wheel sits in the guard as much,the 40 series is a much nicer ride on the road too coz i have all ikeya formula controll arms top and bottom around.

This is for the front will be rolling rear guards soon so i can fit my rears

Skyline model = R33 GTS-T 1997

Wheel diameter = 17"

Wheel width =9

Wheel offset =22

Tyre size =215/45

Modifications to fit = slightly lowered on coilovers still running splash guard

hey guys, Im trying to pick some new wheels n sizes. What's recommended for r33 gtst with standard suspension,

currently have 17 x 8fronts(not sure offsets), 17 x 9rears with 235.45.17 tyres and have heaps of clearance lol..

I would like to go for 19's or 18's dish type wheels but unsure of offsets, cambers and clearances. dont want to do any mods to fit and I will lower it with coilovers to suit after wheels fitted. Thanks for any help

ok lads, got new sizing in mind, and im gonna get the rears flared if need be cause this is the look i want

work emotion XD9's

rear: 18x10 + 18 225/40/18

front: 18x9 + 12 215/40/18

I will definitely be running some camber on the rear (bout 3 degs) and some on the front if need be...

how are these gonna fit mr nisskid?

ok lads, got new sizing in mind, and im gonna get the rears flared if need be cause this is the look i want

work emotion XD9's

rear: 18x10 + 18 225/40/18

front: 18x9 + 12 215/40/18

I will definitely be running some camber on the rear (bout 3 degs) and some on the front if need be...

how are these gonna fit mr nisskid?

oh for a 33 gtst btw, with the rear guards rolled flat already

ok lads, got new sizing in mind, and im gonna get the rears flared if need be cause this is the look i want

work emotion XD9's

rear: 18x10 + 18 225/40/18

front: 18x9 + 12 215/40/18

I will definitely be running some camber on the rear (bout 3 degs) and some on the front if need be...

how are these gonna fit mr nisskid?

very aggressive, very nice :down:

use camber adjustment to get the fitment just right.

ok lads, got new sizing in mind, and im gonna get the rears flared if need be cause this is the look i want

work emotion XD9's

rear: 18x10 + 18 225/40/18

front: 18x9 + 12 215/40/18

I will definitely be running some camber on the rear (bout 3 degs) and some on the front if need be...

how are these gonna fit mr nisskid?

Hey Braddd, this is my first post and I don't want to come in too hard straight off the cuff, so forgive me if this sounds too authoritative, but you know thats not legal right?

225/40R18's shouldn't be mounted on anything bigger than a 9" wheel.

215/40R18's shouldn't be mounted on anything bigger than a 8.5" wheel.

with that in mind have you considered;

rear: 255/35R18

front: 225/40R18 or even a 235/35R18 (a bit hard to find)

its all about the stretch! haha

are you sure 225/40 is legal for 9" rim? i would have thought youd be pushing it..

bradd u wont need to flare rear just roll guards and camber should look tough as! ive got 18x10 +20 and i just rolled but havent dumped it yet may need more guard modification when i drop another inch.

also nisskid what are the chances of fitting a 255 or 265 under r33 guards lots of camber im guessing?

its all about the stretch! haha

are you sure 225/40 is legal for 9" rim? i would have thought youd be pushing it..

bradd u wont need to flare rear just roll guards and camber should look tough as! ive got 18x10 +20 and i just rolled but havent dumped it yet may need more guard modification when i drop another inch.

also nisskid what are the chances of fitting a 255 or 265 under r33 guards lots of camber im guessing?

again, I'm not trying to be a smartarse here, just trying to provide some help... :P

According to the Tyre & Rim Association of Australia Standards Manual, which is what all state authorities reference on wheel & tyre standards, a 225/40R18 may only be mounted on a 7.5" - 9" wheel. (Nominal width is 8").

It's worth mentioning that this manual supercedes any claim made by a manufacturer regarding wheel width min-max.

This from the website:

The Standards Manual is a necessary reference for all tyre and wheel manufacturers and retailers, as well as vehicle and implement manufacturers, vehicle service organisations, transport authorities, government bodies, road and traffic authorities, fleet operators, agricultural vehicle and machinery users. Current Standards Manuals are a nominated standard for many Australian Design Rules (pertaining to the design and manufacture of automotive products) and State Transport and motor vehicle regulations.

is this manual what police will defect you via?

i got done on the weekend for a 235/40 on a 18x10 so now im thinking ill just stick the right size what is recommened for 10" in your book pls?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...