Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how would 17x10 38 R with 265/40

17x9 22 F with 235/40 fit?? any scrub on cornering?

would I have better handling and comfort over the bumps with this combo compared to 18x9.5 15 with 235s all round? I have rolled guards and want it to be flush or close to it.

Edited by AngryRB

hey guys.

at first sorry for my bad english...i´m from germany and have a question about new rims on my r33gtst...

will 8,75j x18 et20 front and

9,75j x 18 et20 rear

fit? tires are 235/40r18 front and rear.

or should i take the rims et35 in the front?

i only want to roll the fender on the inside ( in germany we say "bördeln" )....but dont want to pull the wheel housing...

http://www.japshop.co.uk/acatalog/XXR-527-18-INCH-ALLOYS.html%C2'>

greets from germany..and i hope you can understand me... ( where do i find the thread about introducing me ? )

hey guys.

at first sorry for my bad english...i´m from germany and have a question about new rims on my r33gtst...

will 8,75j x18 et20 front and

9,75j x 18 et20 rear

fit? tires are 235/40r18 front and rear.

or should i take the rims et35 in the front?

i only want to roll the fender on the inside ( in germany we say "bördeln" )....but dont want to pull the wheel housing...

greets from germany..and i hope you can understand me... ( where do i find the thread about introducing me ? )

Yes, 18x8.75+20 front and 18x9.75+20 rear will fit. It will be nicely inside the guards, only a roll is neccesary. Roll is where the sharp edge on the inside of the guard is pushed up on itself to create a soft curve - so it doesn't chew your tyres.

Pump means pulling your guard out to fit bigger rims or larger offset. I don't think you want this.

Yes, 18x8.75+20 front and 18x9.75+20 rear will fit. It will be nicely inside the guards, only a roll is neccesary. Roll is where the sharp edge on the inside of the guard is pushed up on itself to create a soft curve - so it doesn't chew your tyres.

Pump means pulling your guard out to fit bigger rims or larger offset. I don't think you want this.

thanks for your answer...you understood me :)

how safe is it, that it will fit without scratching and so on?

hmm i cant edit...

anyone running 18x10 +15 at rear / 18x9.5 +15 at front on er34 gtt? will i need spacers?

On a 33? I ran 9.5 +13 and 10+11-15 can't remember. Just depends on rim style for front brake clearance

On a 33? I ran 9.5 +13 and 10+11-15 can't remember. Just depends on rim style for front brake clearance

yeah, similar but 34 got more clearance i think, what rubber r u running on? 235? or 225? lol

Edited by enka

Hi peeps, the opportunity has come up to obtain a set of cheap 18s, 18x8 +35 for the front and 18x9 +33 for the rear

They will be fitted to my mrs r32 gtst, will this offset be too weak and sit too far in the guards? Thanks

whats the widest tyre you can go for a 17x10 38offset on r33 with rolled guards, im after maximum traction..

I have 18x10 +38 with 265s. Easy fit with rolled guards. Was thinking of trying to squeeze 285s in there when next due for tyres if I still have these rims.

post-83859-0-74875800-1392158665_thumb.jpg

Edit: stuffed up pic attachment...

Edited by M@&k

whats the widest tyre you can go for a 17x10 38offset on r33 with rolled guards, im after maximum traction..

depends how low, how much roll/flare, how stiff etc

i'd say 265 will be the limit unless you really push the guards.

pump the arches and 285 wuld be possible

flare and the sky's the limit

Hey guys looking at getting a genuine set of nissan wheels but I know I'll have trouble with the offset, I want to know if it's worth getting, any and all help is appreciated.

Vehicle: R33 series 2 GTST four door

Rims: 19x8.5 +50

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...