Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

honestly i dunno but to get around 250 and more out of a standard rb25 on anything less then 17 psi, to me sounds a big challenge, and not to mention the end result will not be reliable.

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I remember freebaggin made some where up around 270-280rwkw on 17psi with his hybrid turbo using a vlt turbine housing.

The turbo specs were selected by Tim Possingham, it was an expensive bugger though, just under 3k. I suspect the comp and or turbine housings had a little bit of power porting.

The HKS int. gate housings are around $800.

Edited by Cubes

With a .63 rear housing and a GT30 comp WITHOUT zaust cam you wont get near 250rwkw under 17psi IMO. With a zaust cam gear set to 3deg advance and a HPInABox GT30 with .63 zaust housing I am hoping to get close to 260rwkw at ~20psi but not over 20psi... I think (hope) that the .63 zaust housing is good enough swollow enough to avoid serging...

With a .63 rear housing and a GT30 comp WITHOUT zaust cam you wont get near 250rwkw under 17psi IMO. With a zaust cam gear set to 3deg advance and a HPInABox GT30 with .63 zaust housing I am hoping to get close to 260rwkw at ~20psi but not over 20psi... I think (hope) that the .63 zaust housing is good enough swollow enough to avoid serging...

No work done. However I think when considdering engine life you should be right at 20 psi as long as your knock is under control. Keep in mind that this is NO race car and will only see 20psi for short periods of time. Lets face it, how many roads are there in the ACT that will allow an rb25det with 260wrkw to be going full blat for any period of time :P I think there is some risk of doing a head gasket but thats no biggy, I will get a fater one when that happens to lowwer the compression and all will be sweet.

Trust me its easier to act ignorent rather than worry about it mate :)

Edited by GunMetalR33

Yea, rb25's a good engines and I have been told a a few people that the head gaskets should last on 20psi. I think its not GOOD for your engine & an engine with less power and boost will last longer...

Things to worrie about are:

ring lands (monitor knock & A/F ratio's and all should be fine)

head gasket (no more than 20 psi / adj cam gear at 3' adv helps this)

rods (dont rev rb25's over 7000 consitantly)

Before going big boost/power get a new timming belt and water pump...

I would like to get a zaust cam to lower the boost...

rant rant rant :P

yeh i agree, coz mines pushing out about 17psi and i have been scared off by a few people telling me it wont last long.... i guess its all about how heavy ur foot is.

dude,

please correct me if i am wrong, are you running an internally gated A/R .82 housing on your turbo?

if so, what brand?

Yea, rb25's a good engines and I have been told a a few people that the head gaskets should last on 20psi. I think its not GOOD for your engine & an engine with less power and boost will last longer...

Things to worrie about are:

ring lands (monitor knock & A/F ratio's and all should be fine)

head gasket (no more than 20 psi / adj cam gear at 3' adv helps this)

rods (dont rev rb25's over 7000 consitantly)

Before going big boost/power get a new timming belt and water pump...

I would like to get a zaust cam to lower the boost...

rant rant rant :P

same me i wanna get a set of zaust cams, help boost up a little better too....

dude,

is that a genuine Garrett GT exhaust housing?

all genuine mate, only thing that aint is the dump obviously. if ur after a turbo like mine give me a pm and i can organise u someone to give u a quote, i got mine pretty cheap..

honestly i dunno but to get around 250 and more out of a standard rb25 on anything less then 17 psi, to me sounds a big challenge, and not to mention the end result will not be reliable.

Its not challenge, ive done it, as have a few others also before me :)

get a new tuner

its just that im wondering how much psi a standard engine can take and for how long?

Its not just a simple question of PSI.

Do a search and a lot of reading. There are many many things that contribute to a motor shitting itself, not just psi.

mass iv, can you confirm at what rpm you are hitting full boost and if and when your tyres start to lose traction?

You mentioned earlier that the tuner said he was losing traction in 4th (or was it 3rd) to which other including myself thought too hard to beleive.

As I mentioned previously, I'm running just over 240rwkw with full boost of 16psi at around 3500rpm and there's no way in hell my car comes close to losing traction in 3rd with newish tyres on it.

In fact, it will hardly even lose it in second, if at all.

For the record, I'm running 225 Dunlop SP3000's on the stock rims.

Maybe the stocko 16inch rims give better straight line traction?

Maybe my car is actually running 200rwkw? (no way :))

As for you guys running GT30's, being a 550-600hp unit I'd say that 250rwkw is still quite a fair whack under the efficiency range of the turbo. I have a 460hp unit on mine pulling similar power with similar boost and still haven't hit the turbos limit. Need injectors :)

Perhaps we're seeing a limit with the stock cam setup because I was actually expecting more from this turbo (GT30) considering you guys have injectors giving you enough fuel for far more than 250rwkw.

ok id like to clear up a few things, my car is at full boost by 4000rpm, which is around 17psi. secondly it spins crazy in second and does a little into 3rd, i dunno if the dyno reading is incorrect but it deffinately feels as though my car has a little more then 240rwkw... not to mention i have smoked a few big powered cars..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...