Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got everything except for a mig welder! that the next tools on ym list. Id prefer to get this done proffesionally, after all, i plan on keeping this car for a while...and its a GTR!

steve

i think super cheap have them cheap!!

HAHAHAHAHA :)

I haven't got mine fixed yet.

I had it looked at by a chassis specialist, they said not to worry about it as due to the mono-chassis it doesn't affect the structural integrity, its simply cosmetic.

But yer I doubt regency have the same view.

I gave regency/motor reg inspections a buzz.

He told me they have seen it from time to time, it really depends if it all measures up as being straight and how bad it really is.

Apart from that he did say they are monocop or something i suspect he meant mono chassis and that yes it is only cosmetic.

Edited by Cubes

i think anyone who tells you that it doesn't in some way affect the structural integrity is pulling your wang...hard.

as for not being told about under body damage that sucks, but out of interest did you ask? anytime i have looked at a car overseas two of the big questions i ask is 1. is there any major accident repair? 2. is there any underbody damage/rust?

and ask for some pics to back up that assesment.

i dunno maybe don't listen to me, i may just be a cynical bastard.

point is you are better off having it fixed properly and if that costs $2000 then if it's done right it's worth every cent.

I agree to be honest. I have had a couple chassis specialists and also motor reg them selves tell me dents don't affect the structural integrity.. As said it all depends how bad it is. :(

yeah i guess the question is when does a 'dent' become a 'bend'? I've seen plenty with 'dents' from jacking up the car on the rails, in fact i've even caused a little one once but those pics above are definately 'bent'. no doubt.

Cubes when you heard monocop the dude was saying monocoque. Basically, it means the strength of the frame absorbs any forces it is subject to. So he means the body of the car shares the load and therefore the chassis rails aren't too much of a stress if bent. The common example of a monocoque frame is an eggshell - the shell itself provides the strength rather than anything inside.

And Steve that damage sucks. My car is in the shop at the moment care of a forklift crushing both outer sills and they've now rusted out - cheers Geoff :D Hey I have a spare sill panel for your R32 if you want! I think it's the drivers side but I haven't seen the car for weeks and cant remember. Actually, you're in Perth mate, disregard! :D

Shit man, so if nissan sells the rails for $100 how much is the car really worth? hahaha... mine were pressed in a little, and I had them fixed along with my sils for $600 at time of compliance, and I subsquently squashed one a bit again, but it makes sense that the design of the chassis makes the rails a little less important (ie not the be all and end all of chassis integrity).

Again, saying that its merely cosmetic is true for Engineers signing off on the car... they only want it to look pretty, so you just have to do it.

JK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...