Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

There are some terific guides to installing bosch pumps in this section which are also a great reference if installing any type of fuel pump.

Ive gone for a Tomei direct replacement fuel pump kit for a couple of reasons.

- Its perormance capabilities will suit my power goal

- Value for money

- Runs quietly

- Extremely Easy DIY installation as the unit is a direct replacement for the entire pump assembly :O

click here for more info on Tomei pumps

06.08.05%20001.jpg

Heres what I did :

1 - Access fuel cell.

This is located on the right hand side of the battery.

(I had to remove my amps to get to mine)

It is covered by a plate secured by 4 bolts.

Remove the bolts to reveal the plastic 'lid' of the fuel cell.

This is white with a black threaded plastic ring with ridges on the side of it.

06.08.05%20007.jpg

2 - Remove lid.

Unplug the 2 wires on the lid. there is a soft part which you squeeze to remove the plugs.

Remove the three hoses attached to the lid.

Keep a rag handy to absorb any spilt fuel. (Only leeks a little bit.)

Using a block of wood and rubber mallet tap the lid anti clockwise.

(This part is tedious)

When the lid is loosened, lift it up to reveal a black "O" ring and more wires and a hose.

Unplug the wires and hose from underneath the lid.

These dont fall into the tank so you can let them go.

Remove lid and black rubber 'O' ring.

(The Tomei kit comes with a replacement "O" ring)

3 - Remove stock pump assembly

Reach into the tank and gently pull and twist the top of the pump assembly (aka - cradle or bracket).

This comes out easily and in one peice.

06.08.05%20008.jpg

4 - Install Tomei pump assembly.

These units come pre assembled with cradle, insulated pump, hose, clamps, wiring and pickup filter.

06.08.05%20005.jpg

06.08.05%20006.jpg

Look into the fuel tank and find the mounting point where the assembly is mounted.

Lower the assembly into the fuel tank and secure it to the mounting point (can be tricky).

5 - replace lid.

Reconnect the new "o" ring, hose and wiring to the base of the fuel cell lid.

06.08.05%20010.jpg

06.08.05%20003.jpg

06.08.05%20004.jpg

Fit and replace the lid by tapping it clockwise untill secure.

Reconnect the 3 hoses and 2 plugs to the lid and also the plate covering the lid.

6 - Prime pump and fuel line

Disconnect fuse for the fuel pump (this is located in the little black fuse box near the battery)

Turn ignition over a few times to move fuel through the lines.

7 - Fit pressure valve.

The Tomei kit also comes with a relief valve.

06.08.05%20002.jpg

I have a NISMO adjustable pressure reg waiting to go on so I didnt install the relief valve.

I was also told that the stock one is ok but I am not 100% sure on that.

Fact is I dont know how to install either the relief valve or pressure reg? And do i require a tune?

If any one knows how please post up the info.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85375-r33-gtst-fuel-pump-install/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
Certainly is nice and easy. $400 from Nengun aint too bad either.

Any idea if the included pressure regulator is the same as standard, or will it run a higher pressure?

I think it runs a higher pressure but not 100% sure? It is different to the stock regulator.

Any one know? :blink:

  • 4 weeks later...
I got myself a Bosch 040 intank pump - anyone know if these are just as easy to install?

I've had a look at it and it doesn't come with any O-ring, hose clamps, mounting bracket or the pick up filter sock looking thing..

I have never installed an 040 but was going to at one stage.

Did some research and learnt that the 040 wasnt as good a fuel pump as it could be. So I went for the Tomei.

The 040 dont have a pick-up filter which leaves a decent sized gap from the pump to the bottom of the tank, thus causing surging on cornering and when your tank is low.

The 040 can be mounted with hose clamps to your stock cradle.(as low as possible).

Not too hard just a bit of stuffing around.

Have a browse in the DIY section, its been covered quite well a few times already.

:)

  • 3 months later...

Howdy ppls,

I would just like to give thanks as this guide was really handy. I just installed a walbro fuel pump. It took about 1 hr. I wouldn't have done it unless someone had posted this so thanks again.

I bought it off BT-Revolution and it came complete with all the fittings and even a rubber base to fit the cradle that it sits in.

The price was cheap and I chose it as the tuner advised it for pretty good quality and it is easy to fit as it's the same size as the std nissan.

I had a look and it seems to be good, made in USA, and it was a real one. It's funny how alot of people on this forum don't like them. There are a few chinese copies of this pump out there and I think people may have been stung from buying one and found the performance to be no where near what it's supposed to be. Anyway - just a theory.

Anyway - I've attached a picture of the pump installed into the cradle for anyone who want's to have a go at it. All the instructions above are well documented and spot on.

post-19015-1137906220.jpg

Chriso

  • 2 weeks later...
I don't mean to sound negative....but put a fuel pressure gauge on the walbro.  I and a couple of others have had dangerously low pressure at high revs from them.....

Hey Man, It's all good - that's what these forums are for.

I had my car tuned today after fitting a walbo, and the graph showed that the afr's went from 12.5 to 11 before tuning. So it's definatly better than my stocko. I'll post the graph when I get home.

I have heard people on the forum getting afr's of 10 after fitting a borsh though.

What pressure reading did you get? I was getting 40psi at 11lbs boost on the stock pump.

you may find the walbro's vary differently because they are rated at 15volts. in an r33 at least the wiring only gives 12volts so it never runs at full capacity. you need to run a 15v direct feed to it

you may find the walbro's vary differently because they are rated at 15volts. in an r33 at least the wiring only gives 12volts so it never runs at full capacity. you need to run a 15v direct feed to it

Yer, I know. I bought a relay and some female spade connectors just incase. Didn't need them though. Enough fuel was being supplied to do the job I'm afer for now. If I go bigger turbo etc, I would relay it to get full use out of the pump. Incidently, the tuner said that he did an R33 with a walbro and got to 345hp before running out of fuel. He also said that some s13's are only getting 10v at the fuel pump, and that can be a problem.

But for now, I'm getting more power, and more importantly, no ping. Pretty happy with that. :)

  • 2 weeks later...

im geting one of these tomei fuel pumps for my 32 so i want have to change all the wiring and make it direct to the battery like some do because they dont have enough power?? hope not becuase that sounds a bit difficult! these tomei pumps seem to be the goods!

im geting one of these tomei fuel pumps for my 32 so i want have to change all the wiring and make it direct to the battery like some do because they dont have enough power?? hope not becuase that sounds a bit difficult! these tomei pumps seem to be the goods!

They are definitely the goods! 6 months later and mine is still running perfect :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...