R33 Gtst Whiteline & Bilstein Suspension

[Sydneykid]

Sydneykid

How much would labour be you think roughly at any of your recommended install shops to install the front castor kit, front/rear camber kits and subframe alignment?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's a tough question, every car is different. A full install including wheel alignment is an all day job for one person, with a little help from another occasionally. If the wheel alignment is tricky or if there are busted/rusted/stuck components, it may take a little longer. I would reckon around $400 to $500 should cover it, depending on the hourly rate of the workshop.

cheers

PS; I have recommended those workshops, not because of price, but because they know what they are doing with suspension.

[INASNT]

It is easy enough to do yourself with a friend on a hoist and then get proper wheel alignment done?

Did my swaybars and doing my new springs with friend soon also, wasent to hard.

[Sydneykid]

It is easy enough to do yourself with a friend on a hoist and then get proper wheel alignment done?

Did my swaybars and doing my new springs with friend soon also, wasent to hard.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Shocks, springs, stabiliser bars and rear subframe alignment kit are easy. You will need a spring compressor (~$25 from SupaCheap, AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn etc).

Front caster bushes and front and rear camber bushes are not so easy. You need a 20 tonne press to remove the standard bushes (they can be very stubborn) and refit the Whiteline bushes (they slip in pretty easily). On my R32GTST they were rusted in and I had to burn the rubber out of front camber bushes and then cut the casing with a hack saw, bugger of a job. To keep the cost down you could remove the components from the car and take them to the workshop. Have them R&R the bushes and then fit them back into the car.

cheers

[INASNT]

How long wait is there on there parts from payment from whiteline.

Friend has press also

[Paradizzle]

Hi Mark if you already have Kings low springs then the rest of the kit will suite OK.  I have designed the valving in the shocks with a window and the Kings low springs fit in that window.  Kings super lows don't.

If you don't already have springs, then the ones in the kit are the best.

cheers 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Sydneykid,

I currently have stock springs, and will be after some lower springs in the near future. So am i able to just use the whiteline springs in the group buy to lower the car..will they fit on the standard shocks?

cheers.

Paradizzle.

[Sydneykid]

How long wait is there on there parts from payment from whiteline.

Friend has press also

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

All items are in stock right now, but the Group Buy has taken off and I don't know how long the current stock will last. After that the max delay is 10 days.

cheers

[Sydneykid]

Hi Sydneykid,

I currently have stock springs, and will be after some lower springs in the near future. So am i able to just use the whiteline springs in the group buy to lower the car..will they fit on the standard shocks?

cheers.

Paradizzle.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No problems, the Whiteline springs will fit the standard shocks. But honestly the standard shocks are simply not up to it. Even when new they don't control the standard springs very well, and they aren't new any more. Plus you are asking them to control a higher spring rate at a lower ride height.

You have to remove the shocks to fit the springs, so you save nothing in labour by doing the springs on their own. Then if you find you don't like it, you can to pay again to have the shocks removed and replaced.

Bottom line, it's your call but it is not something I would recommend.

cheers

[Needajapcar]

My kit has arrived... woohoo

Sydneykid thanks for all your time and effort doing this and answering questions.

[GTRgeoff]

Apexi suspension makes me cry

[Sydneykid]

Apexi suspension makes me cry

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Stop crying , the R33GTR Group Buy is up.

cheers

[Munna]

Got my springs and shocks Wednesday thanks SK. Hoping to put them in this weekend

[justin911]

hey ive just got a quick question..

trying to work out how much its going to cost me / what i need to order from you.. i've got no clue about suspension stuff..

but with the stabliser bars.. do i just select 1 type which i would like to purchase ? either fixed or adjustable ??

with everything else in the list do i pretty much just buy 1 x item ??

im looking to get the full kit your offering basicaly.

thanks heaps

[Munna]

Installed my springs and shocks and Saturday car is now a lot flatter through the corners and the ride quality is still good.

cheers

[Sydneykid]

For the guys that are ordering the Bump Stop and Dust cover kit. You will have to trim the bump stops to suite the correct height that you are going to have your car set at. The dust cover clips ove the end of the bump stop stop so you have to trim the other end with a knife, be careful it is easy to slip and cut yourself.

This is a picture of what the bump stop and dust cover assembled would look like at higher than standard height;

This is how much much to trim off the bump stop, shown next to a standard Skyline bump stop. The orange line is for standard height, the red line is for ~350 mm centre of wheel to guard and the yellow line is for ~330 mm centre of wheel to guard.

Note that standard height is 2 circlip grooves up from the standard circlip groove, ~350 mm is the standard circlip groove and 330 mm is 2/3 circlip grooves down from the standard groove. You can pick the standard groove as it has a yellow stripe accros it. Plus the circlip should be in that groove when you get the shocks.

If you are using the standard bump stops they also have to be trimmed if you are going lower than standard height. Not that you have to trim the thick part of the standard bump stop, not just cut off the little lump on the bottom. You will need a hack saw as the rubber is very tough. The red line (no trimming) is for standard height, the yellow line is for ~350 mm centre of wheel to guard and the orange line is for ~330 mm centre of wheel to guard.

Hope that was of some help, if you have any questions please post them up here as it may answer other peoples queries as well

cheers

Edited February 14, 2008 by Sydneykid

[Sydneykid]

hey ive just got a quick question..

trying to work out how much its going to cost me / what i need to order from you.. i've got no clue about suspension stuff..

but with the stabliser bars.. do i just select 1 type which i would like to purchase ? either fixed or adjustable ??

with everything else in the list do i pretty much just buy 1 x item ??

im looking to get the full kit your offering basicaly.

thanks heaps

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Justin, you've got it, just choose which items you want, note that you need 2 pairs of shocks and 2 pairs of springs. Following is a typical R33GTST kit with fixed rate stabiliser bars;

Front Springs $144.00

Rear Springs $144.00

Front Bilstein Shocks $485.00

Rear Bilstein Shocks $485.00

Front stabiliser bar $194.00

Rear stabiliser bar $194.00

Caster Kit $115.00

Front Camber kit $272.00

Rear Camber Kit $123.00

Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00

Freight (over $500 order) $Zero

Sub Total $2,261.00

Less extra 5% $113.05

Total $2,147.95

If you don't intend to adjust the stabiliser bars to get the handling balance you want, then I recommend the fixed rate bars. Just put them on and drive away, I have chosen them so that they suite a wide range of applications and conditions.

cheers

Edited September 19, 2005 by Sydneykid

[INASNT]

Sydneykid what camber,toe and castor settings do you recommend on the track with the whiteline handling kit, custom made (stiffer) springs and blistein shocks but with 18 inch street tyres?

[Sydneykid]

Sydneykid what camber,toe and castor settings do you recommend on the track with the whiteline handling kit, custom made (stiffer) springs and blistein shocks but with 18 inch street tyres?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

As much caster as you can get, keep pulling it on until the front of the wheels rub on the inner guards, then back it off a bit. Should be 7 degrees positive at least, you can never have too much caster.

Front camber at least 2.5 degrees negative, maybe as much as 3.5 degrees negative depending on how high the spring rate and bar rate is. Use the pyrometer to tell you how much it needs. If you don't have a pyrometer, then have a look at the tyres after a few laps, they will tell you whether there is too much or not enough camber.

Rear camber, 1.5 degrees negative, but again it depends on the springs and bar rates and to a lesser extent how much anti squat geometry you are running. Once again use the pyrometer to tell you how much it needs.

cheers

Edited September 19, 2005 by Sydneykid

[INASNT]

what about front/rear toe?

Should the tyre be the same temp inside and outside when adjusting the cambers?

[Sydneykid]

what about front/rear toe?

Should the tyre be the same temp inside and outside when adjusting the cambers?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Toe is as per the thread, Zero on the front and 2mm in on each side at the rear. If it understeers, add a little toe out to the front. If it power oversteers on corner exit add a little more rear toe in. If it is reluctant to head for the apex on intial turn in (and it isn't power oversteering on corner exit) then you can try a liitle toe out on the rear.

Yep, you are aiming for consistent temperatures across the tread.

cheers

[INASNT]

Thanks sydneykid I will see how it goes with those setting, and i think Roy has a pyrometer he brings to most track days.