Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got mine in too, haven't measured up, but they feel good on the road.

Had some trouble with the front swaybar, couldn't get the yellow bush ting to fit inside the D bracket properly, so gave up, might have to pay for a pro to fit it.

Heights on mine are 335 apart from the front right which is 330 odd. I will see how they settle over the next day or so

to get to 350 I would have to go much higher on the grooves

I didn't get swaybars, i will see hows it like when I get it all alligned

One thing to note, at the lower setting, my bump stops got stuck up the top and pulled away from my dust boots, I haven't checked them since I raised it up a bit, hopefully they are still intact at the higher setting. Would be a pain in the ass to pull them out for a 3rd time!

I don't mind pulling the fronts in and out, the rears are a pain, esp. with the strut brace.

Hey did you know you can get the susp. in and out WITHOUT removing the wheels? Just turn your steering full-lock each way for the fronts, and jack your car up good and high at the rear. :D

Her Oosh, I had the same trouble when fitting the front sway bar.

The best I could get is having the bush sit about 10 mm off set in the bracket. But it doesn't seem to be shifting, so hopefully that will do.

Sorry, i don't quite get what you mean, it sticks 10mm out the top or the side? Still doesn't sound like an ideal solution, did you get the BNF28Z's too (24mm diameter), got some ideas for us SK?

Both bushes stick out the side of the bracket about 5 - 10 mm, but they're is not shifting from there. So I guess I'll just keep an eye on it, to make sure they don't work their way out.

Bilstein ran out of shocks in Australia for the R32GTST and I was going to close the Group Buy accordingly. But Germany found a handfull in stock, so they have been airfreighted to Australia and arrived last week. The exchange rate was good enough so that the airfreight cost was covered, so no change in the Group Buy price.

This means I can keep the Group Buy open for a bit longer. But don't delay too long, there are not many sets left. We could be looking at a 5 to 6 month wait for the next production run.

:D cheers :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Got my kit this morning, fitted it in a hour or two.

Cant be happier after trying lowered kings, to hks hipermax coilovers, to these. The ride height is perfection on the standard settings. The suspension feels very solid without the harsh ride. I will post some more feedback when i drive it some more. It was raining on the way home from the shop so i couldnt throw it around to much. I did test how easy the rears spin etc and im very happy. Car behaves when you get off the gas etc very well.

Only thing that wasnt really flash was the bump stops and dust covers whiteline supply. Anyone who wants a set of front and rear for $50 let me know.

Mick

Got my kit this morning, fitted it in a hour or two.

Cant be happier after trying lowered kings, to hks hipermax coilovers, to these. The ride height is perfection on the standard settings. The suspension feels very solid without the harsh ride. I will post some more feedback when i drive it some more. It was raining on the way home from the shop so i couldnt throw it around to much. I did test how easy the rears spin etc and im very happy. Car behaves when you get off the gas etc very well.

Only thing that wasnt really flash was the bump stops and dust covers whiteline supply. Anyone who wants a set of front and rear for $50 let me know.

Mick

Hi Mick, glad to hear everthing arrived OK and fitted up, interested in hearing your feedback after a week or so of driving around.

On the Bump Stops, they are very progressive and therefore much better than the standard bump stops (which are very hard) when you have a lowered car. The hit (to bump stop) is much softer. That's why I use them. Don't forget to trim them to the appropriate size for the height.

The dust covers are not as good as the standard ones, but the best available in the aftermarket in the correct size. If the standard dust covers are OK, I would always use them, but with the aftermarket bump stops.

:P cheers :O

  • 3 weeks later...
im after a set of coilovers, is there anything i can get from here?... for my 32gtst it will be used for drift on the track..as well as being a road car

Skylines come standard with "coil overs", the coil spring goes around the shock. The term "coil over" is a bit too generic, like saying I need "black tyres".

Do you want on car height adjustable "coil overs"?

Or off car height adjustable "coil overs"?

What about shock damping? Adjustable bump? Adjustable rebound?

Both? Together or separate adjustment? In cabin adjustable?

Do want to buy used $400 "coil overs" or new $10K "coil overs"? Or something in between? They are all "coil overs".

So I need a bit more info before I can really be of much help.

:) cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...

I got my kit last week and got it installed on the weekend.

My height before putting the kit in was 320mm at the fronts and 290mm at the rears. Bouncy :D:)

Now with the kit in and on the setting one groove bellow the one it comes out of box, but which still looks like a standard groove coz it's painted yellow, is 330mm front and 320mm rears. I expected it to be higher than that.

The ride is obviously much better than what I had before but it seams to be a bit harsh especially up to 40 km/h on rough roads.

I didn't cut my bump stops and that could be the reason for extra harshnes. I checked at the back with the car on the flat surface and there is only about 2cm space between the shock and the bump stop. Is that sufficient enough or should I cut them? How much travel does the shock need? I couldn't check the fronts.

Also, I couldn't go any lower than one groove coz the spring wasn't getting captured.

I haven't done the wheel alignement yet as I'm waiting for my HICAS bar to go in. So just to confirm the settings before I go:

Front:

Caster:

Around 7 degres with slighty more on LHS

Camber:

Around 1 degree neg

Toe:

1 to 2 mm out

Rear:

Camber:

0.5 degree neg

Toe:

1 to 2mm out

Does this sound right?

Just to confirm it's a 4 door R32 gtst.

I got my kit last week and got it installed on the weekend.

My height before putting the kit in was 320mm at the fronts and 290mm at the rears.  Bouncy  :rofl:  :)

Now with the kit in and on the setting one groove bellow the one it comes out of box, but which still looks like a standard groove coz it's painted yellow, is 330mm front and 320mm rears. I expected it to be higher than that.

The ride is obviously much better than what I had before but it seams to be a bit harsh especially up to 40 km/h on rough roads.

I didn't cut my bump stops and that could be the reason for extra harshnes. I checked at the back with the car on the flat surface and there is only about 2cm space between the shock and the bump stop. Is that sufficient enough or should I cut them? How much travel does the shock need? I couldn't check the fronts.

Also, I couldn't go any lower than one groove coz the spring wasn't getting captured.

I haven't done the wheel alignement yet as I'm waiting for my HICAS bar to go in. So just to confirm the settings before I go:

Front:

Caster:

Around 7 degres with slighty more on LHS

Camber:

Around 1 degree neg

Toe:

1 to 2 mm out

Rear:

Camber:

0.5 degree neg

Toe:

1 to 2mm out

Does this sound right?

Just to confirm it's a 4 door R32 gtst.

Yep, those target alignment settings are OK. Plus or minus a bit, as every car is different.

The 330 mm front and 320 mm rear is lower than I would recommend, plus the springs will settle around 5 mm after few k's. The rear camber (in particular) will be a lot negative.

The bumps stops MUST be trimmed, as per the pictures earlier in the thread.

Personally I would go up at least 2 circlip grooves, preferably 3. Around 350 front and 340mm rear is the best handling/ride comfort height. You need to do that before the wheel alignment is done.

;) cheers ;)

Hey Sydneykid, is the group buy still going?

I'm keen to get some bump stops

No problems, just PM me with the details.

:P cheers :P

  • 2 weeks later...

About a year ago i had my front upper control arm bushes, radius rod bushes and a few other parts replaced as the original ones (which had done ~155000km) had worn fairly badly.

I'm now looking at getting the whiteline kit, but don't really want to replace the parts that have already been replaced. I know that the radius rod bushes were replaced with adjustable items so i shouldn't need the castor adjustment from the whiteline kit, but im not sure what was used for the upper control arm bushes.

I know the control arms bushes werent genuine nissan parts, but i dont know if they were adjustable or not, so my first question is how do i tell if my upper control arm bushes are adjustable, similar to the eccentric bushes in the whiteline kit? And secondly, do i need the camber adjustment if the ride height isnt excessively low? I plan to use your recommended ride height (front 355mm rear 345mm centre of wheel to guard).

Tom.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...