Jump to content
SAU Community

Air Flow Metre's

mark morris

By mark morris,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mark morris Enthusiast

mark morris

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi every one,

I am looking to up grade the AFM's on the GTR and I not to keen on getting second hand ones that may give me trouble shortly. But in the same breath, I dont want to cough up the $750+ each that nissan want for the genuine RB25 AFM's.

as im only looking at making about 300-350rwkw the RB25 AFM's would be sufficent, but will go with what is best at the time.

Just wondering if any one could answer a few questions I have?

* Dose any one make after market or equivilent of the RB25 AFM?

* Dose'nt Bosch make the Z32?

* Dose any one have part no.s and/or prices for RB25, Z32, NISMO etc. air flow metres?

Cheers, Mark

Edited by mark morris
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85933-air-flow-metres/
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

I was in the same boat but just bit the bullet and got z32 brand new. Not cheap but new. I even changing the airflow meters don't go rb20/25 meters. Sure they're 80mm but bugger all difference in electrical callibration. Same with Nismo 65's(They are supposed to be rated at 700ps a pair-crap).At 330kw at wheels my GTR maxes air voltage around 3.5v. Plently more left and sill idles good. Gotta chop/replace the plugs though and get 80mm z32 specific gtr filter kit (eg Apexi super suction) Prices each I've checked:

RB20/25-$200 s/h

Z32-$250-$450 s/h or $600-$800 new

nismo-$400 new

My advice is to stick with stockers until you max them out on the PFC then get z32 units, unless you get the rb25 ones for a really good price(they plug straight in). Depends on how much kW you are stopping at.

350kW rb25 afm will be close to max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85933-air-flow-metres/#findComment-1555813
Share on other sites
gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the good info fellas!

Ken, long time no speek. Are they from bosch?

Hey did you get that black r32 you were waiting on last time I was over there?

Yes they are from Bosch and yes , the black GTR is here.

Runs 407rwhp off the boat at 15psi :P:D

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85933-air-flow-metres/#findComment-1556172
Share on other sites
mark morris Enthusiast

mark morris

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

nice, mate whats done to it? Well have to get both of the black bangers together for a photo somtime.

I Got a part no. off a second hand one here: F00E000202.

Dose any one know if this is correct, and dose any one know what resistance I should be getting across a good one?

Edited by mark morris
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85933-air-flow-metres/#findComment-1556220
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...