Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My theory is this:

The new turbo has a better bearing cartridge and I know for a fact that it spins way more when you turn the car off, so you would assume that it will spin faster & longer when the clutch is pressed in.

So, with a higher turbo rpm with clutch in combined with the fact that the GT30 comp housing is flowing much more air I am getting compressor surge...

Its either this, or the guys who made my intake piping blocked the BOV return pipe near the mouth of the turbo

What do you guys think?

its not a lot to do with RPM, and little RB25 turbo would spin faster to make 12 psi than a GT30... if my brain is thinking logically

check your BOV, like make sure its working, not just hooked up.

Worst case, just purchase GTR ones.

They work perfectly

Yea, it will vent small amount of pressure like 5psi for example. Its when you get higher presure that it start to flutter.

The GT30 certainly does flow the 12psi much easier... But at the end of the day 12psi measured at the intake plenum is 12psi no matter what turbo you use.

do you get flutter only at 12psi and a normal stock bov sound at say 5psi?

I have another question.

is 12 psi 12 psi?

I mean, 12 psi produced by the stock turbo = the same amount of air as 12 psi from the GT30?

My brain won't bend to work it out today....

well if it can vent at 5 psi but not at the higher 12, then 2 things can be the issue.

1.) the bov can't flow enough.

2.) the return line is too small and can't flow enough to the inlet.

either of those will cause enough of a blockage to cause a fluttering.

Lordsnipe - you're right..

just thought about it now.. when I got an RB25 turbo on my RB20, on the same boost (11psi) it was making a decent amount more power than with stock turbo.

I just can't think of the theory behind it.

if it's 12 psi in the motor, then how does that effect flow wether it's from gt30 or T25...

brain broken..

Sounds like you need a bigger BOV or one that vents better or both.

Does this only happen at high rpm (high flow rates). ie. does it surge if you shift at 4000rpm? Cause that would be a similar flow rate to your stock turbo at 5000rpm (estimate)

As for the does a bigger turbo flow more than a stock turbo with 12psi in the plenum ??

Well it's 12psi in the plenum but the engine makes more power which means it has more flow. (ie. eats more volume of air per second) This is because the turbo is more efficient and uses less exhaust restriciton to make the intake pressure so it lets more air out of the engine for more air to go in.

Got it?

They would flow the similar in the midrange though where the stock turbo is still sort of efficient.

bah 12psi is too low on a gt30r not even on the compressor map........

boost it to 14 then tell us how it goes.

also the stock bov is good for stock turbos but big tubos need some flow for the BPV.

another option would be to run dual bov's to vent boost but at that point the fab work and cost would make it cheaper to buy a highflow bov/bpv

Arr,

That makes sence. I have always wondered how that worked, thanks for clearing it up!

As for my BOV, it seems to have loosened up a little. Now it will vent fine for low boost & low rpm but as soon as you get a little more boost (~10psi) & rpm she goes PSSSHHH flutter flutter flutter :)

As for the does a bigger turbo flow more than a stock turbo with 12psi in the plenum ??

Well it's 12psi in the plenum but the engine makes more power which means it has more flow. (ie. eats more volume of air per second)  This is because the turbo is more efficient and uses less exhaust restriciton to make the intake pressure so it lets more air out of the engine for more air to go in. 

Got it?

Does anybody have some pics of a Plumb back installed on a RB25DET???

An aftermarket one I mean...

just try an aftermarket plumback one... if it doesn't flutter at high revs, then you're done.

if it does, then the bov return line would be the restriction.

Edited by GunMetalR33

i had to change my stocky over after gt30 installation , it was leaking at high boost. put a blitz supersound on and it works fine , i have no compressor surge problems. gunmetal ive got pics now to of oil lines and of the turbo actually on my car, if you want i can send you photos, just pm me your email and i will send photos.

Its OK now mate, I have it fitted and sorted. Now I just have the injectors left to do and a tune. At what PSI did your BOV leak? I thought the stock BOV would be fine. Did you get any compressor surge with the old BOV?

Is your Blitz BOV a plumb back and if so do you have any pics of it mounted?

i had to change my stocky over after gt30 installation , it was leaking at high boost. put a blitz supersound on and it works fine , i have no compressor surge problems. gunmetal ive got pics now to of oil lines and of the turbo actually on my car, if you want i can send you photos, just pm me your email and i will send photos.

Edited by GunMetalR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...