Dry Sump Set Ups

[Beer Baron]

sump looks good mate. thanks for posting that up. I just got some tomei baffles for mine. I was origionally going to use the trust sump as they look nice and ricey and say trust on the bottom, but i just liked the simple design of the tomei kit. though the trust kit does ad more capacity and with the change in sump shape i guess they don't need the same type of baffles as the standard shape sump does. the only other thing i didn't like about the trust one was how low they hang, if you knocked it on a curb at the track could be trouble...

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Thats the thing, In my sumps I get alot of the extra capacity by going wider not just deeper, the trust one in my eyes is a rip, I can fold the same square box of aluminium in 3mm sheet in about 20 minutes at around $15 for the ally.... I make my own baffle/trapdoors as my sumps are deeper they need to be a custom height, the tomie, arc baffle kits I have seen are really good though and I would recommend them to anyone who wants t go weekend circuit racing!!!! As a side note more oil means cooler oil also, so there are a few different benefits to extra capacity.

[Sydneykid]

Although I can recall SK boasting he can do a dry sump for $500, $2K is getting more realistic.... but $4K is a more likely figure.

Hang on, I remember doing one for $1500, but that was only a 3 stage.

I acknowledge posting that I could do a dry sump system for $500 MORE than a decent wet sump.

Moving on...............

Personally I wouldn't have a dry sump system in my road GTR, but I wouldn't have a 650 bhp road car anyway. That's a track car that just happens to be still registered.

The comparison between the cost of a decent wet sump system with a proper high flow oil pump plus decent cylinder head oil control and a dry sump system is not as great as some people would have us believe. For a start the cost of fabricating a dry sump pan for a GTR is much cheaper than fabricating a decent wet sump for a GTR, with wings, baffles and one way doors having to be made.

The real problem is the ludicrous prices charged for upgraded/aftermarket oil pumps (I don't consider N1 pumps to be aftermarket). Then there are the even more ludricous costs of the adaptor collar required for early RB26 and all R20/RB25/RB30 cranks.

Add it up and I don't think there will be much difference in TOTAL cost, but there sure as hell is a big difference in effectivenes.

cheers

Edited September 5, 2005 by Sydneykid