Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I see where you're coming from SK, for sure. Id suggest from that advice that its clear you'd have to be lucky to get away with shoe-horning a turbo like that into the Stag for under $2k. Looking into it I didnt realize there was a fair bit of fabrication to do (cost wise).

At the end of the day, Im probably going to go the safe route and do the hiflow option, but whilst Im saving for that I'll keep an open eye as to what else is available, based on the $ to $. <_<

Fact is 180-odd 4wkw shouldnt be hard to achieve, so Im going to get all the bolt-ons, air and fuel system ready to go, touch up the braking performance, sort some suspension, and then finish it off with the extra power.

Just takes a while to go through the process, so its good to see what else is achieveable for the same amounts of $$. Thanks for the further info on the GCG, they sure do service a few components!

Cheers for your great advice and information SK, top stuff. :D

Brendan

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ok well, i am really starting to think about rebuilding the standard turbo just because i dont want to change anything else at the same time.

Infact, i think the path i will take is to buy a 2nd hand R33 turbo and then get it rebuilt, but my question is, is there anything that i can do to get to make even more power in addition to the 250 odd awkw??

Also, i have a feeling that my problem at the moment isnt 100% my trans but i think it could also be my turbo rubbing on itself somehow, but not too certain about that. Anyway, i was thinking it may be because it isnt getting enough oil at low RPM's so my oil lines could be somehow blocked, would it be difficult to replace the oil lines at the same time with aftermarket braided line(benefits??)

Thanks on the info, so rebuild would cost around 2,000+ turbo cost = 2500 inc shipping all around etc...

I may also go talk to a shop around here when i get the time.

Ok well, i am really starting to think about rebuilding the standard turbo just because i dont want to change anything else at the same time.

Infact, i think the path i will take is to buy a 2nd hand R33 turbo and then get it rebuilt, but my question is, is there anything that i can do to get to make even more power in addition to the 250 odd awkw??

Also, i have a feeling that my problem at the moment isnt 100% my trans but i think it could also be my turbo rubbing on itself somehow, but not too certain about that. Anyway, i was thinking it may be because it isnt getting enough oil at low RPM's so my oil lines could be somehow blocked, would it be difficult to replace the oil lines at the same time with aftermarket braided line(benefits??)

Thanks on the info, so rebuild would cost around 2,000+ turbo cost = 2500 inc shipping all around etc...

I may also go talk to a shop around here when i get the time.

Turbo rubbing? Simple to check, pull the inlet feed off the compressor and feel the end float in the turbo.

Oil supply problem? Also simple to check, just pull the oil return hose off the fitting at the return to sump. Measure the flow at idle.

The usual stuff for 250 4wkw is;

Split dump, 3.25" exhaust, high flow cat

FMIC (at least 600 X 300 X 75)

Tomei Poncams, 256 for RB25DET hydraulic lifters

GCG Ball Bearing hi flow (use an R34GTT turbo as they have the larger turbine cover)

Power FC (piggy backs won't cut it)

Z32 AFM upgrade

Injectors (JDM S15 manual)

Fuel pump (R33GTR)

Panel filter in the standard airbox (Pipercross)

Tuning, tuning, tuning

You have to have a good think about what you are trying to achieve and how much it is going to cost. The Stagea has the same basic lay out in the drive train as an R33GTR but the components themselves are much smaller. Have a look at StageZiller's pictures of his drive train swap over.

I wouldn't be surprised if at 250 4wkw and 1800 kgs you start to run into drive shaft, diff, ATTESA and auto gearbox problems. This is quite expensive (parts and labour) to fix, so you should budget for it in case you really need to do it all. For example, the gearbox upgrade is around $2500, for a new 2nd gear drive belt plus 3rd and 4th clutch pack upgrades and an upgraded valve body. Getting it to live with the Power FC's lack of ignition cut on gearchanges will be tricky. Going to a manual is even more expensive as you will need a tripple plate clutch to handle the torque/weight/4wd combination.

You could easily spend $25K and several months getting it all to work reliabily together. Sorry if that's a bit too much realism, but better to know in advance what you are in for before you start.

;) cheers :)

Ditching the auto, manual parts are being sourced as we speak and closely speaking to my workshop about it etc.

Also they are inspecting Ian's manual s2 for ideas.

Ill definatly be swaping driveline parts out as i go, unfortunatly as power mods have developed heaps over the past 10 years...driveshafts havnt really come far.

As for ATTESSA, what happends if the transfer case (or whatever it is) totally fails? Do i just only have RWD 100% or are there big losses?

- re my rubbing, my friend suggested that it could be the turbo gasket having cracked, producing a whine type noise?

  • 2 weeks later...
Oh, by the way, there is nothing wrong with realism, as i am also a realist. Its only when pesimisim gets in the way when it turns a good situation sour

On the subject of realism.....

Is it 'better' to hiflow an R34 GTT Neo turbocharger rather than a R33 GTST Turbo?

The R34 RB25DET Neo has around 20kw more than the R33 RB25DET, so therefore am I better off buying an R34 Neo turbocharger, use that for a while with an added power level (once SAFC is retuned) and eventually hiflowing that?

I keep thinking that this is the way to go - any reason why I shouldnt perhaps pursue this further?

Brendan

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

I KNOW!!! Im sure they are out there, sitting on shelves in sheds gathering dust. Im sure a few R34's have had bigger turbo's put on.

I trawl thru ebay weekly looking for one, but no luck yet!

Brendan

Yeh, dont bother with a 34 GTT turbo as they are hard to come by.....

plus, i am looking for one *evil face*

HAHAH, na, just keep searching, let the best man win. I search on YahooJP, but can only find new ones.

Probably im better off getting a GTST turbo and doing that, or getting an aftermarket turbo... which is probably what i will do.

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

The R34GTT turbo is around 15 rwkw better (260 rwkw versus 275 rwkw) due to its larger turbine cover. The rest is pretty much the same, except the R34GTT turbo has a plastic compressor wheel and the R33GTST has a steel compressor. Not that that is much of problem, the ceramic turbines fail a long time before the plastic compressor becomes and issue.

:P cheers :O

Edited by Sydneykid
The R34GTT turbo is around 15 rwkw better (260 rwkw versus 275 rwkw) due to its larger turbine cover.  The rest is pretty much the same, except the R34GTT turbo has a plastic compressor wheel and the R33GTST has a steel compressor.  Not that that is much of problem, the ceramic turbines fail a long time before the plastic compressor becomes and issue.

:) cheers :)

Cheers for the info, both here and the fuel pump query.... Im looking at all the ways I can reach 180_4wkw, without going overboard.

Brendan

How much should I be paying for a RB25 NEO turbo with actuator, in good condition, no shaft play, with low kms... ?

Might have found one!!! hehehe

Brendan

edit: BOUGHT IT!! cant wait to get it!! hehehehe. paid $650. Thanks to a fellow forum member who got it for a RB20 but never used it.

I also might have sourced a choice apexi intercooler with the C-bend at the far end, to utilise the standard intercooler engine bay holes.

Get custom pipework done, add those on to the car & the other bits Ive got, retune the SAFC, and hopefully 165-odd kw at the 4 wheels, which will keep me happy for a (little) while.

Edited by bwilkeson

Nice work mate..that was quick!

I'm trying to look for a blown one myself as it'll go straight to the shop for a highflow. No point spending the extra money on a working one then..

Nice work mate..that was quick!

I'm trying to look for a blown one myself as it'll go straight to the shop for a highflow. No point spending the extra money on a working one then..

Sent you a PM.

And no, I dont muck around - now we've just got to survive for another 4weeks before the next payday!! :lol:

I posted in the Wanted section, so maybe thats an option fellas?

Brendan

Received my R34 GTT Neo turbocharger and actuator today, top condition by the looks of things.

EDIT: Help please, what numbers (ie stuff written on the turbo) can I use to determine that this turbo is in fact a Neo?

post-18854-1128655577.jpg

post-18854-1128655698.jpg

Edited by bwilkeson
Received my R34 GTT Neo turbocharger and actuator today, top condition by the looks of things.

EDIT: Help please, what numbers (ie stuff written on the turbo) can I use to determine that this turbo is in fact a Neo?

Given I've got two of them (one in the R34, the other in the Stagea) if there is any external way (without pulling the engine out!) that I can get some numbers or whatever for you, let me know...

Ian

Thanks Ian, but I think you need to be close up to the turbo... Ive posted in the Forced Induction section so see if I get any luck there.

Here is what the turbo says:

Actuator says 28 4 Z06A and ASN 79

Turbo says 45 V 2

back of turbo says 21 U

Had some great advice and help in another thread regarding the turbo I bought. Going to take the turbo to a local shop, and see what options are available, but I'd think steel wheels and a larger rear housing is the go for this project.

Got my intercooler from ebay now, was remarkably clean inside and out. Gave it a flush but was in super condition. Happy with that; being Apexi you can see the R&D thats gone into the unit. Thick metal but yet so light as a whole. Super air flow by the looks. You can honestly see why they are so damn expensive brand new. :( Very happy with that!

Core measures 385W x 230H x 60D, end to end tank is roughly 560mm wide. Exactly what I was after, can paint it lightly in black for the stealth look, move my numberplate to where the sidemount currently is, and cut a big hole where the plate was fitted, keeping the spotlights where they are.

With the k&n pod & apexi front mount sucking the air, a beefier & regulated fuel flow thru new lines, apexi adj. ignition timing, larger z32 afm, full 3in exhaust, ebc, apexi airfuel pc, and a beefier turbo.... Im hoping it s going to get near my 180akw mark at roughly 10-11psi, with maybe more available for short bursts at 13psi on the duel stage EBC.

Cant wait to see what happens!!! :( :lol:

Sound system is tops, will do the front brakes in 6months time, and at this stage Im pretty happy with the suspension. I'll tink with that over the next year or so.

btw: finding Im drving the car more than usual, and not riding the bike as much...whats going on? :) :lol:

Brendan

post-18854-1129345484.jpg

post-18854-1129345712.jpg

post-18854-1129346220.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...