Jump to content
SAU Community

400hp What Upgrades

wallystyles

By wallystyles,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wallystyles Enthusiast

wallystyles

Posted
Posted (edited)

i am about to up grade my car again and i got my turbo gt35r got 500hp fule pump got front mount got a hd clutch and im going to put in some 555cc injectors this means i will be able to boost it up but iam worried if i going to get it over 400hp which im pretty sure i will i am going have to up grade a lot more at the moment i have 370hp does any one know what other things i will have to do to my car

post-8385-1125914714.jpg

post-8385-1125914807.jpg

Edited by wallystyles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86585-400hp-what-upgrades/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

clutch

airflow meter

555cs probably wont be enough, 740c's are only like $20 extra each

youll want a nice big exhaust for a gt35. 4" or 3.5" from turbo back

youll want some suspension work and brake work done otherwise it will be a coffin. aftermarket ecu a must. unsure how std fail rail will go.

the only you dont have is lag, but that will come when you put that sucker on :D

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

you'll need a properly built motor if you expect it to last any moderate length of time.

The GT35 is overkill for what you want to begin with.

Its a turbo that will pump 350rwkw on pulp given the right spec.

When you say you have 370hp now, is that RWHP?

Although i doubt it as you make no mention of having injectors in there as yet

Bigger isnt always better, and for 400hp (which i assume isnt 400rwhp as i said above with the 370hp)

A car will a smaller turbo will eat you for breakkie ;)

wallystyles Enthusiast

wallystyles

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

i do have 370 rwhp i also have a apexi power fc and my turbo is allready on but i still have stock injectors will 740cc injectors be able to push my turbo harder i want somthing that will last as well as go hard but i dont want to kill myself the car is fast now i was going to put the injectores on next week and a custom radator on it how much will a clutch cost and what sort will be good for my set up

Edited by wallystyles
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted (edited)

well isn't 400rwhp still under 300 RWKW??

550cc injectors will do that fine without having an adjustable FPR. 740cc would just make idle quality really bad.

edit -- is that your widebody gtst??? looks good i lke the gurads etc.

Edited by Craved
Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

My injectors hit max with 325rwhp through a Malpassi fuel pressure reg.

There is a general consensus that 250rwkw it about the max power you can get from the stock injectors.

I'd question your injectors (maybe they are aftermarket and you don't know it, maybe they have been high flowed) or I'd question the accuracy of the dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...