Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes and no.. depending on the coat used..

Some latter Nissans (R33 1.5 onwards) use a different clear coat, that can quite easily be stuffed with standard cutting compounds. If your paint is a bit dodgy, then it can only get better via a c&p.. did wonders for my R32 and cars with older cars i have used. With an old car that is exposed to sun, you have to expect the paint to be on its last legs (15 years or so).. so something u always have to factor in anyhow if u want bling bling

Apparently what is meant to be great is Mothers Clay, and not quite a cutting compound, it fills the small scratches.

Might be similar to what RellikZeppher is saying.

Apparently what is meant to be great is Mothers Clay, and not quite a cutting compound, it fills the small scratches.

Might be similar to what RellikZeppher is saying.

If you're refering to Mothers Clay bar then it isn't for filling in scratches or polishing at all. It's for removing particles and buildup from the paint using a lubricated clay bar directly against the paint.

Works great for cleaning up paint but will have no effect on scratches sorry.

If you're refering to Mothers Clay bar then it isn't for filling in scratches or polishing at all. It's for removing particles and buildup from the paint using a lubricated clay bar directly against the paint.

Works great for cleaning up paint but will have no effect on scratches sorry.

ive been looking for the mothers clay bar for a while, i cant find anyone who stocks it!!??!!??

hmm duno why everyone is so scared to cut and polish... i borrowed a mates rotary polisher and cut my car using that and Maguiers fine cut ... and then hand polished and buffed... worked a treat, made the paint look and feel brand new!

only thing to be carefull with when using the rotary polisher are the seals.. other then that i dont know how you can go wrong

-Ruffels

It's for removing particles and buildup from the paint using a lubricated clay bar directly against the paint.

so what does that do?

as far as i know c&p simply removes the harshness of scratches by either removing the edges of the scratch (i.e. the rough debris surrounding it), or removing the topmost layer of paint, assuming the scratch is not deep enough to go through to the undercoat or metal. It obviously does not "paint over" or cover any scratches.

If you need rto ask this question, pay the money nd get it professionally done. Once its restored you can work on keeping it in top condition.

Dont buff it with a powered buff unless you know what you are dooing, you can compleely remove the clear coat if you are not careful, edges are especially vulnerable, and swirl marks will probably be left behind.

so what does that do?

as far as i know c&p simply removes the harshness of scratches by either removing the edges of the scratch (i.e. the rough debris surrounding it), or removing the topmost layer of paint, assuming the scratch is not deep enough to go through to the undercoat or metal. It obviously does not "paint over" or cover any scratches.

A clay bar removes from the top of the paint without affecting the clear coat at all. A cut and polish uses abrasive material to actually cut into the clear coat itself. You get a shiny finish after a cut polish because you removed the top most layer (10's of microns maybe) of clear coat leaving you with nice shiny new paint which was underneath.

This has the side effect of removing very fine scratches that were in the clear coat and softening the look of more severe scratches.

Done poorly or too many times it will wreck the paint.

Clay bar's are stocked at Autobarn. Mother's aren't the only brand and all the brands are the same so buy any clay bar.

Use a light cutting compound with the rotary tool. Do not try doing the bumpers or the side mirrors. Use a heavier compound on the bumpers but use a hand polisher.

For the buff marks use a hand glaze, that will remove the marks.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...heme_us_aad_3_0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
    • hahahaa @GTSBoy that is my last resort. Like use a cardboard and cut it using the indicator as a reference. But I was winging my luck to see anyone had a spare bumper because drawing the outline off the hole is always easier and less chance of mucking it up
    • Admittedly in that screenshot its doing about 13psi but later on in the log theres definitely spikes to 16. What is missing though is the massive peak, then a big drop and then a recovery. While it does go a little higher than I would like on base pressure, I think it's reasonably safe to assume that boost control via the mac valve should be a lot easier to control from here on out. I wasn't game to hook up the mac valve today as it's very wet and it's on the verge of fighting traction as it is.
×
×
  • Create New...