Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi ppl,

Just about to purchase a series 2 R33 (very stock). I took it for a test drive the other day, and before hand when the hood was opened, I noticed the guy had put on a pod. Being a first time turbo driver, once the car hit around three grand, this annoying sucking sound started to happen. I've noticed it with other cars before and have hated the sound of it in unison with a BOV...so my question is; Would noise be reduced if I were to purchase something like this

and insulate it in some way? Then again, would this reduce airflow significantly and be totally useless? Should I just hunt down a standard box.

cheers!

yeah m_7581, if you seal off the pod, or even just get the std air box for the 33, u will no longer have that sucking noise.

however, why dont u like that noise? i put my std box back on but i want that sucking noise back....is there anyway of modifying the std box to create a similar sucking noise?

Kind of off topic, but what have people who have just jap fmic kits installed on r33's been doing with their airbox. On mine the intake snorkel that runs to the box had to be removed to allow the intercooler piping to pass through. I just bought an apexi panel filter, and don't like the idea of running a pod, but I would like to have some way of getting cooler air into the airbox. Do I need an aftermarket airbox, or does anyone sell different airbox snorkels that I could use?

Heat and some time to play around will get you the result you need Mick, plus opening the top of the airbox. Not sure I'll have time to finish since I'm leaving end of Feb and have 5 cars to move to Brisbane and an engine to rebuild.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to bring this thread back alive again, just noticed a couple of pages back that someone mentioned the Victoria legal modifications.

If you do upgrade your intercooler AND you have a ARC airbox is this illegal in Victoria?

Edit: Oops, the rules state that if you have a larger intercooler then you cannot have any intake/exhaust system modifications. I don't get the "exhaust part", doesn't everyone with an upgraded intercooler have an aftermarket exhaust?

I now do understand that you couldn't have ARC airbox + intercooler because that would be an intake modification and thats not allowed with an intercooler (according to that EPA letter on legal mods in Victoria)

Regards,

Gareth

Edited by some_cs_student
Keep the airbox and suitably mod for cold air intake and go nuts with the intercooler!!!

NSW pods are illegal so VIC boys still have a bit more choice?

Pods aren't illegal in NSW. Mine's engineered; afaik completely street-legal. If someone wants to argue; they can argue

with the engineer that said it was legal (I don't really care :laugh:).

Intake mods that don't pass the noise-test and emissions test _are_ illegal in Oz; but then, so are any mods that put

you outside the emissions envelope. You're not supposed to have programmable engine management anywhere; but

there are some folks that are _allowed_ to adjust stuff on the RTA/EPA dyno to pass (how do you adjust non-programmable

management?).

Go figure...

Regards,

Saliya

been said 1,000,000 times. IN VIC u r only allowed 1 intake mod. So u choose, FMIC or Pod. Hence why we have discussion on the stock box. A turbo upgrade is a intake mod. Another reason why hi-flos are a good choice..

Oil Pods are illegal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...