Jump to content
SAU Community

Indicators Blinking real fast!


Recommended Posts

Well i had to pull my front 400r bumper off to fit my new cooler and in the process 2 of the bulbs in the indicators on the bumper broke, so i replaced em with new bulbs. We had to remove the fan for the AC also cause it was in the way of the cooler. Now my indicators blink real fast like there is a bulb not working, but they all work fine. Could it be caused by the plug for the AC fan being left off cause it was removed and its detecting this as a fault!

Here a pic of the front bar and cooler for those that havent seen it yet!

Oh and i got 183kw@wheels at 0.9 bar boost after the s-afc was retuned with the new cooler

attachment.php?s=&postid=126459

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8753-indicators-blinking-real-fast/
Share on other sites

Sure you replaced them with the correct wattage bulbs. I think the rapid blinking is caused by the system detecting the wrong voltage drop, which will vary according the the wattage of the globe. I can't see how the A/C fan would affect the indicator voltages. Otherwise you'd get different blink rates when the fan was on and when it was off.

i am preety sure i replaced em with the correct bulbs. How many different wattages do they come inm they r the 1'c with the 3 lipped end. Does the left and right indicators run off the same circuit so if 1 of the left bulbs r not working the blinker will still bink fast even when u indicate right?

heres my dyno graph 2!!

:)

attachment.php?s=&postid=127544

The increase in blinker speed is caused by a bad/faulty/short circuit

Same thing happens if you forget to connect your driving lights back up when you take the front bar off.

Sounds like your bulbs are incorrect

Originally posted by INASNT

no not yet, but i changed my headlight fluid and it didnt help either!!! :D

yeah? well give it a go dude...

It's probably the blinker fluids..and don't try and use the headlight fluid for the blinks, it will stuff things up...

Good luck with it :D

I did the same thing and they blinked too fast, either get the correct wattage bulb or place a resistor from Dick-Smith in series with the bulb, this will give it the correct volt drop and they should blink normal.

See'ya:burnout:

when i was working with cars and puting them back together and doing panel beating this was common... mainly cause one of the lights (as they run in series) isnt working.

when one stops working or blows then it puts the series out and starts to flash faster but generally only on the side which the bulb is affected.

Inark,

Normaly that is the case, that one of the lights has blown, but if you put in the wrong wattage globe then that has the same effect. Need to increase the resistance of the line back to what the original system was by adding a resistor.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by INASNT

can any 1 give me the correct wattage for em. And remember its the 1'c on the front bumper. Thanks

Here is !! :P:D

Copied straight from my Skyline manual.

Head Lamp 12v 55w

Fog Lamp 12v 35w

Side Lights 12v 5w

License Plate 12v 5w

System/Rear Lights 12v 21/5w ???

Reverse Lights

Sedan 12v 18w

Coupe 12v 21w

Indicator Front 12v 21w

Rear 12v 5w

Cornering Lamp 12v 21w

So front bar indicators should be 21 watties.

J

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Here is !!  :P  :D

Copied straight from my Skyline manual.

Head Lamp              12v  55w

Fog Lamp                 12v 35w

Side Lights               12v 5w

License Plate            12v 5w

System/Rear Lights  12v 21/5w    ???

Reverse Lights

        Sedan        12v 18w

        Coupe        12v 21w

Indicator Front    12v 21w

              Rear     12v 5w

Cornering Lamp  12v 21w

So front bar indicators should be 21 watties.

J

thanks jay!

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Jay,

You have a Skyline manual, how did you score that?

See'ya:burnout:

:P :P

It's just the owners manual... Not the workshop manual :P

I'd looooove to get hold of a workshop manual.

My last cars I'd always get a Gregory's manual so I could work on the car myself. With the Skyline I'm a bit nude, but willing to get in there and give it a go.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...