Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

STI113,

ok I had a look at their site, but it is looking like I will need to order them locally....I dont think I can wait for them from the US...

also what else have you done to your 32 GTR brake wise to improove it?

currently this is my setup:-

AP 6 pot 355mm rotor unknown, but hat is AP so maybe AP

unknown pad

fluid is motul 5.1 RBF600

cusco brake stopper

braided lines all round

rears are just stock GTR with DBA rotors

what pads are you running front and rear?

have you done anything above and beyond this?

cheers....

I haven't done anything yet. I'm trying to find out what the biggest rotor is I can use with the rims that I have. It looks like 365mm with be the biggest without going for a TE37 style of rim (can't get the right offset in these rims).

Basically I'm probably going to end up with 365 * 34 mm rotors and 6 pot calipers, AP600 Fluid, Comp 9 pads at the rear. Braided lines as well. My Nismo strut brace alrady has a master cylinder stopper.

I couldn't imagine needing to do anything else unless I was pulling 300+kmh on the main stragith at Philip Island????? :D

Regards

Andrew

Edited by STI113

I find with the R34 rims the RE55's 265's are probably slightly too big. 255's would be perfect but they don't exisit. Still the 265's are better than the 245's.

But as mentioned the 265's fit perfect on my 18x9.5 LMGT4's.

Andrew - not sure what you are doing for braided lines but the club get a discount through Maltech and several of us use them and they are great.

http://www.maltech.com.au/ultimatebrakehoses.html

I find with the R34 rims the RE55's 265's are probably slightly too big. 255's would be perfect but they don't exisit.  Still the 265's are better than the 245's.

But as mentioned the 265's fit perfect on my 18x9.5 LMGT4's.

Andrew - not sure what you are doing for braided lines but the club get a discount through Maltech and several of us use them and they are great.

http://www.maltech.com.au/ultimatebrakehoses.html

Hi Andrew,

The brake package I'm looking at has braided lines included with them.

Regards

Andrew

Ben,

I can't remember exactly but I think for the AP's the Ferrodo's were around $500 for the front set (I use Galfer pads on the rears).

And yes they are a high friction pad. And they are a bugger to bed in propperly! LOL But once bedded in they are fantastic - very good initial bite and a very consistant pedal feel.

However - extended street use leads to them becoming DAMN noisy. They need to be worked hard reguarly.

Nice!

Well I will look at those also....

currently 3 that stand out and have been recommended are the :-

Hawk blue

DS 3000

Pagid

was it ok to use the DS3000 on a worn rotor i.e. not a new one?

and I am guessing it will be a few highway runs for me to bed them in!!

Basically I'm probably going to end up with 365 * 34 mm rotors and 6 pot calipers, AP600 Fluid, Comp 9 pads at the rear. B

There are a few variations of the AP 6 pot caliper. Generally people use he CP555 as it has a wide range of pads available, is basically a high performance street caliper with internal dust seals, is reasonably weighted and caters large diameter rotors.

To the best of my knowledge, they will only accept a 32mm thk rotor. So just check the part number of the caliper and be sure that it will accept a 34mm thk rotor.

There are a few variations of the AP 6 pot caliper. Generally people use he CP555 as it has a wide range of pads available, is basically a high performance street caliper with internal dust seals, is reasonably weighted and caters large diameter rotors.

To the best of my knowledge, they will only accept a 32mm thk rotor. So just check the part number of the caliper and be sure that it will accept a 34mm thk rotor.

You are correct, this one will be spaced.

Regards

Andrew

Ferodo DS2500- high performance road/Track pad,works from cold to 600-650 degrees, kind on rotors, friction curve quite stable but will rise slightly with temp.

Ferodo DS3000- track pad, Works from cold, high inital bite, about 20% more friction than a DS2500. can be hard on discs when cold (street use), can be noisy as it is a race pad.

Pagid RS4-2(blues)- very similar to DS2500 (temp and friction specs), very popular tarmac rally pad, bit noiser than DS2500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...