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Just thought I'd follow a lot of people and tell all about my dyno tuning experience today... had my R34GTT tuned at Bromspec Performance (Brookvale) by Justin from Haltech/Tweakit. ECU was the stocker + SAFCII D1 Limited Edition.

First Power Run: 171.5rwkw

Final Power Run: 194.6rwkw

Final Power Gain: 23.1rwkw

Total Runs for Tune: 15~20

Total Time: ~ 60 minutes

Total Cost: $160.00

I am very very pleased with the results; especially since my rather shocking result at the Dumar Dyno Day (27/08/05) and its good to see that money has been well spent since then :D Also like to thank Bromspec Performance and Justin for doing such a great job at such short notice (basically just caled them up and told them I'd be there 15 :D)

AFRs are also fixed now to a flat 12.5 instead of the 10.6 - 11.3 I got in the past. This will make fuel economy better, though I think with the new power it won't make much difference :)

Inch by inch we are getting closer to that magical 250rwkw number... now in an AUTO, that would be FAN-BLOODY-MARVELLOUS :lol:

[DYNO GRAPHS TOMORROW - NO SCANNER @ HOME]

FREE PLUG FOR BROMSPEC PERFORMANCE:

19 Orchard Road

Brookvale NSW 2100

T: 02 9939 4980

W: http://www.bromspecbmw.com

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Hey there. Does he tune at mona vale aswell?

How did they check for pinging, with stethoscope style device? Has he done many R33s before??

Still wondering where to get my car tuned..either UAS, Premier (Mt Druitt) or Tweak it

Nice result mate!!

Edited by benl1981

benl1981; if you go to Tweakit you'll end up back at Bromspec - they borrow the dyno at Bromspec. As for pinging etc, not quite sure... they had the car hooked up in quite a few places from what I saw (sorry not really knowledgable when it comes to that).

BTW for all those who are interested...

I'm currently running a K&N Filter in the stock box. Some argue that this is more restrictive than a pod, some argue the opposite. Well it was proven tonight that IT IS!

As a little experiment we took off the snorkel + top of the box and did a run... ADDED 10RWKW to the number :)

Just a little info for those who want to POD it up; but make sure you keep it legal for NSW driving use :D

BTW for all those who are interested... 

I'm currently running a K&N Filter in the stock box.  Some argue that this is more restrictive than a pod, some argue the opposite.  Well it was proven tonight that IT IS!

As a little experiment we took off the snorkel + top of the box and did a run... ADDED 10RWKW to the number :O

Just a little info for those who want to POD it up; but make sure you keep it legal for NSW driving use :)

Sorry, but that proves nothing except that having no airfilter will give you a slightly higher once off dyno figure. Out of interest, was the bonnet upon or closed? I would like to see what happens to your 10kw gain during regular daily use (i.e. nice hot underbonnet temps). An apples-to-apples comparison would require a boxed pod IMHO :)

I reckon 12.5 is pretty much a borderline AFR for any street car, especially when using piggy backs such as the SAFC. Ive found that the AFRs can wander around a bit over time, as the ECU adjusts its long term fuel trim maps.

If i were you, I'd consider pulling adding 2% to the map to give you an AFR closer to 12...

How much boost were you running?

What other mods do you have?

Was running a flat 10psi of boost using a manual boost controller (from the forum). Other mods are all listed on my site.

Sorry, but that proves nothing except that having no airfilter will give you a slightly higher once off dyno figure.  Out of interest, was the bonnet upon or closed?

You are right, it was a once off figure done just for comparison. The tune itself was done with the stock airbox and snorkel ON. However, the bonet was left opened during the tune.

If i were you, I'd consider pulling adding 2% to the map to give you an AFR closer to 12...

Well looking at the graphs; the AFRs did float around as you are saying... it ranged from 12.2 - 12.5 depending on RPM level/s. Since the tuner has more knowledge than I ever will, I'm not going to change his tune.

I reckon 12.5 is pretty much a borderline AFR for any street car, especially when using piggy backs such as the SAFC. Ive found that the AFRs can wander around a bit over time, as the ECU adjusts its long term fuel trim maps.

If i were you, I'd consider pulling adding 2% to the map to give you an AFR closer to 12...

Long term fuel trims only affect closed loop operation not open loop. Standard s14 and s15 silvias run closed loop fuel till about 6psi of boost - scary hey, not really just make sure your AFR are closer to 12 at the rev limit. If they are I wouldn't be too worried I would say thats a good tune. Towards the end of the rev range its more about quenching the chamber so that when hiting the revlimiter detonation will be avoided(as all cars ping on the revlimiter).

Very nice - I always thought dyno tunes cost around $500.

Anyway, it gives my Auto R33 something to aim towards!

Just 1 q:

Have you got any thing to preserve the life of your gearbox?

rob82... the graph (which I'll put up tonight), shows that it dips back to 12.1-12.2 at the end of the rev range - does this indicate a 'good tune' as you are saying?

wink... at the moment it's just my the soles of my shoes that are preserving the gearbox :) Probably look into replacing the oil in the box with something better; or getting gears looked at to maybe strengthen them up.

good one mate. I'm sure it will feel loads faster now :)

On the panel filter I think you will find that the restriction you have is the size of the opening in the airbox, not the panel filter itself. You can mod the airbox to allow more air in this will solve the problem :O

I don't think AFRs of 12.5:1 are too much to worry about when driving on the street but if you plan on taking it out to the track i personally would have it a fair bit richer than that up top.

Don't even think about changing the gearset of the auto. The R34 already has a cooler for the trannie too. It's alright for ordinary stuff but as I found taking it to the track often will kill it.

I think you should look into a valvebody upgrade from MV. Check the group buy section. Apparentlt the faster shifts also reduce heat which is what kills autos.

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