Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally the budget allows for a turbo back exhaust to be fitted to the 33. I was just about to buy a nice looking Trust stainless catback system, then chuck on a front pipe etc, when a mate told me it would be cheaper to go to an exhaust shop and just get the full thing made up. It will probaly work out cheaper as well as allowing me to choose the exact muffler i want and also the angle it points out at the back, the only problem is will a custom exhaust be less flowing, due to welds???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88622-custom-vs-brand-exhausts/
Share on other sites

Beware getting the local bloke to do it unless he can show you dyno figures from one he's done before for a similar car. The second hand ones you see at wreckers etc are really cheap and if it's a name brand Jap thing like HKS or Trust you can usually rest assured that it'll work OK. Custom jobs, if they're any good, will usually cost $$$

said it once and ill say it again. the key

#1 get a 3" split dump from BATMBL on the forums - $410 delivered

#2 take pipe to exhaust shop

#3 ask how much to fit #2 and supply 3" hiflow cat and 3" exhaust

id say resonable price for #3 would be $900

most jap kits are $1300 odd unfitted, and are cat back

Pfft sif custom jobs = more $$. I'm sick of the majority of people thinking this. It'd work out to be cheaper than what you'd payed for a full jap system and the thing is it'll work out to be whatever you need it to be. A full jap system shipped from Japan will cost you a stupidly high price, and thats not even if you get rorted by customs yet.

You can get a decent full 3" exhaust brand such as X-Force at local exhaust shops for around $1100 to $1200 fitted. Spend the savings from Jap brand for mods that give you good gains (bleed valves, ecu/piggy backs) And I don't believe there are big power difference with Jap brand, other than sounds.

said it once and ill say it again. the key

#1 get a 3" split dump from BATMBL on the forums - $410 delivered

#2 take pipe to exhaust shop

#3 ask how much to fit #2 and supply 3" hiflow cat and 3" exhaust

id say resonable price for #3 would be $900

most jap kits are $1300 odd unfitted, and are cat back

I'd also look at buying a Magic (see Magic Performance on NissanSilvia) or Catco (see BATBML) cat before hand.

By the way, cat-back Japanese exhausts have fallen a lot in price. You can get the Trust Power Extreme II (or whatever its called) full stainless cat-back for about $800, give or take a few bucks. More expensive brands like Fujitsubo are about the $1000 mark.

Rofl, people over-price JDM exhuast system;

Most of them cost $400 or so brandnew (catback only) then add the price for front and dump pipe looking at like $1000 for full exhuast system then add some shipping maybe around $1300-$1500

And it doesnt take a rocket sciecntest to install an exhuast all u need is a jack and some time

I had to get a custom turbo to cat pipe made up as my car is not a skyline and there was nothing available off the shelf.

I got it done at liverpool exhaust and it was $330. if it was a skyline it would have been $300.

It is a top job. excellent welds and no kinks anywhere. very well made.

I would not do it for a skyline as there is just so much stuff available.

the x-force stuff is OK but the split dump joins to close to the turbo. you would be better off with the one from batmbl. but it is twice the price. but you get what you pay for. his is the best.

you should also get the cat from him.

as for the rest of the system it's up to what you can find secondhand. or you could just buy a cheap x-force catback.

all up you will be spending $1100 plus fitting for a well designed properly flowing system.

Just buy an xforce turbo back exhaust from ebay for $650 and fit it yourself. Thats what I did and I almost gurantee that it performs as well as any of the name brand jap kits from the cat back.

If you want to spend a bit more just get a good quality split dump pipe and high flow cat (although the XForce cat is not to bad). Try getting a custom split dump pipe made up - it will cost you an arm and a leg.

My 2c

custom advantages:

- brand new pipes and mufflers

- to your car's custom specificiation

- you can make the best combo for your car

- cheaper

- hangs high up as its custom made

custom disadvantages:

- no proven power gain

jap-brand advantages:

- tried and tested

jap-brand disadvantages:

- hang very low

- old mufflers that have lost their baffle

- old pipes that are beginning to show signs of ageing

- expensive

jap brands are just not worth it, as you are getting a mass-produced product that never fits as nice as a custom job and costs twice as much for something that is getting old

custom jobs are NEW and CHEAP and CUSTOM to your specific noise and power requirements..

i swear by the custom job

Warren.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...