Jump to content
SAU Community

Interesting Brake Upgrade Option

Zapata

By Zapata,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zapata Explorer

Zapata

Posted
Posted

Something that anybody looking at putting R32 brakes onto thier R30 should take a look at.

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6186

One of the guys over at Ozdat has fitted the Datsport upgrade kit for 1600's to a HR31 using the standard 15inch rims :P

http://www.datsport.com/R32_CODS.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89191-interesting-brake-upgrade-option/
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Zapata,

For $3000.00 coversion cost they would have to g'tee stopping on a dime/sixpence/five cent piece.

I can get 296 x 32 BNR32 GTR brake upgrades for a sh!t load cheaper than that.

I can buy genuine BREMBO slotted rotors for $220.00 each & I have the calipers already ($400.00) the only drama for me is the mounts spacings & offset, but I think machining the stock hubs to allow the GTR rotors to go over the top will suffice.

The conversion is old hat these days, but still many prefer to use VT Commodore 330 dia rotors etc.

As our R30's only weigh 1100 odd kg I don't see the need to go bigger than BOLT ON DR's and EBC pads.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

I have a mate in Adelaide that has done the VT conversion and in as much that the car has a marked change in braking characteristic I don't think they would be better than 4 pot BNR32's, ONLY cheaper as he has stock MR30 rear disc set up.

The DR rear although using the same size pad, it is 290 diameter as opposed to 254. The leaverage is a huge improvement.

I'm going to do the BNR32 GTR front upgrade a bit later down the track.

My first priority is to get it registered with the coil overs and DR set up front & rear. Along with bigger sway bars that will have to be fine tuned.

I have a complete DR Iron Mask body kit including the optional rear wing.

I get my bonnet back next tuesday and I am a bit apprehensive how it will look, but time will tell.

0HR-30T Rising Star

0HR-30T

Posted
Posted

Yeah that seems very odd. Why go to the trouble of converting AUSSIE struts when the HR31 has the magic 100mm bolt spacing for the 4 pots anyway??? Only reason I can think of is to keep 15" wheels (?)

You'd want to have bloody nice 15's to warrant that expense though! :O

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine.

I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet.

0HR-30T Rising Star

0HR-30T

Posted
Posted

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine.

I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet.

I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning :) )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet

How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all?

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning :) )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet

How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all?

I CAN'T ANSWER YOUR DISTORTION QUESTION UNTIL TUESDAY, but as for guides to channel air, please explain why we/I can't rely on simple physics to do the job.

This is my thoughts on the subject:

As the air moves over the bonnet and over the louvres, a low pressure area is created directly behind the louvre and therefore faster moving cold/outside air sucks all hot air out through this low pressure trough.

A guesstimate on the distortion issue would be nil, as all the work is done without chabging the bracing underneath.

I am interested that you have been thinking this way, as we (the forum) had a similar discussion some time back about a drift style carbon fibre bonnet being made.

This idea of mine was howled down by certain bodies but heaped praise on the drift style. My initial enquiries found the difference in weight between the steel and carbon fibre was about 5kg, yet would cost in excess of $2000.00. Probably easier to go on a diet for a lousy 5 kilo.

0HR-30T Rising Star

0HR-30T

Posted
Posted (edited)
I am interested that you have been thinking this way, as we (the forum) had a similar discussion some time back about a drift style carbon fibre bonnet being made.

Well,I'd imagine it'd be a similar thing to having guides at the side of the radiator at the front,to direct as much of the total air as possible through it.The result would be a nice clean path for the air to flow through the rad.Same on the back side...instead of letting the air blow through the croe and into the engine bay,why not make some guides on the rear of it,so as to direct it up and out the vent,once again giving the same clean path for the air to flow,and keeping air velocity up,since I'd imagine once passing through the rad and into the engine bay area,it's flow would be disrupted.

Yes just a vent using negative pressure would draw some air out of the bay,but to my mind,it wouldn't be as effective as if it were guided out,so the air flow through the core,as well as negative pressure would be pushing/drawing it out.

Just my thoughts :)

PS-how did the vents turn out?

EDIT - just realised that I've missread you original post.Geez I'm a dumbass :)

Still think some form of guides would be good.Eg-if you wanted to vent out some hot air from the turbo/exhaust area,you could have a little "scoop" on the underside of the bonnet that when the bonet was closed,the scoop fitted close to the exhaust manafold,etc.

Keep in mind that too close to the screen would be a high pressure area though!

Edited by 0HR-30T
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
Well,I'd imagine it'd be a similar thing to having guides at the side of the radiator at the front,to direct as much of the total air as possible through it.The result would be a nice clean path for the air to flow through the rad.Same on the back side...instead of letting the air blow through the croe and into the engine bay,why not make some guides on the rear of it,so as to direct it up and out the vent,once again giving the same clean path for the air to flow,and keeping air velocity up,since I'd imagine once passing through the rad and into the engine bay area,it's flow would be disrupted.

Yes just a vent using negative pressure would draw some air out of the bay,but to my mind,it wouldn't be as effective as if it were guided out,so the air flow through the core,as well as negative pressure would be pushing/drawing it out.

Just my thoughts :D

PS-how did the vents turn out?

EDIT - just realised that I've missread you original post.Geez I'm a dumbass :unsure:

Still think some form of guides would be good.Eg-if you wanted to vent out some hot air from the turbo/exhaust area,you could have a little "scoop" on the underside of the bonnet that when the bonet was closed,the scoop fitted close to the exhaust manafold,etc.

Keep in mind that too close to the screen would be a high pressure area though!

Distortion is NIL and decide for yourself how it looks.

Cheers

  • 2 months later...
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
That looks great Ghostrider. I was thinking about some kind of venting on the drs bonnet since it was raining really heavily one day, and there was still steam coming off the top of the bonnet haha.

How much is venting like that worth?

$250.00

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...