Jump to content
SAU Community

A31 Front Rubber Boot


replicate
 Share

Recommended Posts

Head down to your local spare parts store........they should have some universal boots available........i got a set for a Laurel, the box mentioned R31 skyline.

Should cost you about 15-20 bucks for the pair.........don't forget to get a wheel alignment asap after fitting them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have these split as well, would it be the reason my HICAS light keeps on coming on? if it's something that only costs 15-20 bucks a pair i'm keen on fixing my car again,

it seems every day lately i've been fixing something small on that hoopdie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does your hicas light flicker? or does it stay on?

If it flickers, then your power steering fluid is low.

If it comes on everytime you drive your car and stays on, you may have a hicas lock bar fitted.

The split boots will not cause a leak, however left unchanged, split boots will allow dirt etc to get into the seals on your steering rack, and over time create leaks. For the sake of 20 bucks for the part and cost of a wheel alignment i suggest you do it.

I also suggest you check other parts such as rack ends, tie rod ends etc. If they are worn, replace them while you have it apart, otherwise you will be paying for several wheel alignments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for those of you who are tight arses (like me) you dont need a wheel alignment, just count the number of turns when you take the rods ends off, and write it down so you dont forget!

on another note, when i bought the car the hicas light didnt come on, then after a while it started to come on occasionly, and after the last track day its been on ever since. Fluid is fine, no leaks. i think i'm due for a lock bar...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it's leaking fluid then it's too late :) replacing the boot aint gonna do much now...the seals in there are gone...get them rebuilt...or do it yourself :) and then replace the boot

What do i have to rebuild? Is it the steering rack? I have no idea. Sorry for all the noob questions.

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings.  This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.
    • Grease the poly bushes as your first order of business. Moly grease. Spanner check everything else. Inspect LCA inner bushes.
    • It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler). There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.
    • I've had a 9280, 9280's in stock form produce a bit of a whine when coming on unlike the 9180 so you may already like the turbo sound as it is.
    • So everytime the car is changing momentum, say you were going forward, and then you brake, itll do the creaking  and then wont happen when you brake again while still going forward. but once you put it into reverse and then you brake itll creak, but wont creak any more after while still reversing. And then again, when you go back to forward and the first time you brake, itll creak.  ( note will only happen the first time you brake when traveling a direction ). Wont happen, when youre going up speed bumps or hitting a pothole etc. Sound comes from Front left area.    I'm unsure as to what might be causing this sound so if anyone has any suggestions please. Ive got a set of R34 GTT brakes that I will be installing soon too. (and disregard the gutter rashes, from previous owner(s)... ) Otherwise, it has a shot set of Tein Coilovers, original bushings except poly on tension rods. Car has 138k kms. Video reference :   
×
×
  • Create New...