Jump to content
SAU Community

Pulling My Engine Out Next Weekend.

Abo Bob

By Abo Bob,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

OK here's some better tips raceworx style. We have blown up so many engines we should have some ideas.

Fluids will go everywhere no matter how careful you are. Coolant out first and drain the oil from the engine...the engine shop dont need that surprise.

Assuming you are doing it in the garage, jack it up super high and leave it on 4 jack stands. Dont forget to undo the wheel nuts first if you are taking the wheels off.

Get one of those nifty organiser thingies like this to keep bolts organised, you will lose them or put them back in the wrong place otherwise. The longer until the engine goes back in the more bolts will escape

KI07053.jpg

As discussed a lot of long extensions make it easier to get to the top transmission bolts. The harmonic balancer is a bastard to undo too. On a GTR a tiny little stubby ratchet or ratchet spanner make the top starter motor bolt much easier.

In a GTR as the engine comes out you will need to tilt the rear of the gearbox down so the input shaft stays straight. Undo the gearbox crossmember and put a jack under its rear to let it down as the engine goes up. Use your 5th jack stand to hold the gearbox in once the engine is out.

Dont take the power steer pump out just take it off the block. Same with aircon compressor. Alternator and starter motor you remove but dont lose.

Beer helps keeping things lubricated during the job.

And as the manual always says, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.

Are you saying Duncan, that I can't take the engine out without the gear box or just that there is not enough room to move it forward to get the drive shaft out without tilting it?

I will take the radiator out cos that's easy. Do you guys normally do that?

Why do I need to remove the harmonic balancer? I thought the engine rebuilding place would do that.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Put aside a minimum of 5days to get everything out and back in again.

I'm a bit of a fuddy duddy and bugger arse around abit though. :P

When I had everything out I also took pictures of everything, alternator, powersteer pumps, a/c.

Always comes in handy when something needs replacing and you need a part number or need to know what type it is. :)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Thanks guys.

Are you saying Duncan, that I can't take the engine out without the gear box or just that there is not enough room to move it forward to get the drive shaft out without tilting it?

I will take the radiator out cos that's easy.  Do you guys normally do that?

Why do I need to remove the harmonic balancer?  I thought the engine rebuilding place would do that.

You can remove the engine without the gearbox. There is enough clearance if you remove the radiator. Last thing you want is the engine leaping forward as it disengages the gearbox and punching a hole in the middle of the radiator. Support the gearbox with a jack first.
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

I always remove the front wheels then lower the car as far as possible when working over the top or the final engine removal which helps with the low ceiling. Saves the hamstrings from later pain. Remember to use stand when underneath of course.

Locate the engine lifter as far forward in the garage as you can so you can then use the jack to roll the car back or to the side if space around the crane is a problem. My garage is at the top of a steepish drive and the chain block is fixed in the ceiling so I just roll the car out of the way and mount the engine straight on the stand.

Otherwise, what Drunken said.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Adam ,

Take the radiator out , the first thing yopu will do . Dont forget to use a sheet of plywood or chipboard to protect the air cond condenser .

Dont bother taking out alternator , unbolt the air cond compressor and secure it on the rail do the same with the power steer pump that way you dont have oil spilled everywhere .

Undo the engine mount nuts ( from under the car ) undo the tranny bolts and the starter , then split the box using a huge screwdriver and or tyre lever . take the front pipe off but leave the turbo and dump on .

Mount you chain on the mounting hooks at the front and rear of the cil head .

The bonnet should be removed before you start , a bit in a hurry , if i forgot anything when you are about to remove it p.m. if you like or ring me and i'll try to help you .

No you dont have to remove the harmonic balancer , the engine builder can do it with a rattle gun easy .

P.m if you want my phone number .

You will be fine mate , you can do it .

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the added info guys. I've been collecting containers and boxes to put stuff in. :D

Thanks for the vote of confidance Jerry. I already have your number and I might give you a call if I get stuck but hopefully I'll be ok.

I'm going to pull the front bar off and remount my intercooler while the engine is away so perhaps I should remove the air con condenser while I'm there??

And do we have consensus on removing the rear gearbox mount/cross member? Ie; can I leave it connected to keep it all solid since the transmission is staying in? Is there enough room for the engine with the drive shaft sticking out to clear the bay? Obviously I'll support the front of the trannie.

Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted

When we did my engine conversion we had to pull the Neo out of the R34 halfcut, we didn't encounter any real problems to speak of that relate to what you're doing (Getting the loom out was an arse of a job but you're not going that far I hope :D)

We cut the radiator support panel out to assist in the removal of the engine but I hope you're not going to need to go to that level :)

As been mentioned before, get as much coolant out as you can, get the oil out, etc

If you intend on leaving the gearbox in the car then be prepared for an arsefight, I'd suggest just pulling the engine & box out together and putting them back in together, that way while the car's off the road you have the opportunity to do some cleaning up inside the transmission tunnel to remove the road grime etc if you feel so inclined :P

Everything else has been covered I reckon, have as many people around as you can when you're pulling the engine out to try and avoid it smacking the firewall or the radiator support panel

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

Personally i remove the engine much differently but you need access to a 2 post hoist and a nice solid metal trolley(i use a friend workshop after hours and pay for the use with cartons lol)

Basically past the car on the hoist and i drop the subframe/engine/gearbox out on the trolley and lift the car off the top

the last GTR i did in 3 hours by myself

once it is out of the car it is so easy to work on (would would even concider doing turbo change with way now)

i then remove the gearbox from engine and the engine out of the subframe and place the subframe back in the car temporary until the reinstall. The whole job from driving in the car, to pushing the car on the car trailer to take it home with motor and gear box on the back of the ute was about 4 1/2hours (by myself) i just had a couple of friends at the end to push the car around.

pete

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
4.5 hours? Geez that's good going Pete!

When I took my RB20 out it took myself and my brother from 8.30am until 4.30pm and half a carton of tooheys!

hehehe

yeah but i have done few this way now and you bypass all the problem points ie top of gearbox and starter motor bolts etc

my quoter was a 6 pack of the sphincter of the universe studdies lol

pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...