Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It was upsetting to see that someone did crash :P Thankfully the damage didn’t look all that bad from what I saw, probably $4K worth, which at the end of the day is pretty good. If I ever have a major spill I hope I get out of it that cheap.

What are super cheaters? Full slicks?

47 Blaise Paris Ra Sti 1:04.5900

10 Andrew Richmond Skyline Gt 1:04.7000

Teh GTR (or is that GT) can lose!!!!

:(;)

Boring track, but had fun regardless. Most fun was the super sprint with snowy where you could really see the strong and weak points of each car. Even funnier was the fact we posted exactly the same times down to 1/100th of a second :P

Sorry snowy. Couldn't help myself. You know its the only opportunity I am ever going to get to beat you at a track, so I am making the most of it :D

Edited by CDR RA

I dont think he is a member of sau or even on the forums.

I met the guy 1 week ago when I was fitting my new front rotors.

He is a member of the Nissan Datsun Car Club.

He was telling me the last time he did the calder track was 2 years ago and it just started to rain on the lap he hit the wall and preety much came onto the straight and the ass let go and that was the end of it.

He is on the forums - mutex - but doesn't post much (10 posts in 2.5 years!)

But as mentioned he's a NDSOC member. He was planning on running some more with us this year but has had some troubles with the car. And it was a great shame to see another car visit the wall. Hardly his fault either - Calder is a nasty track when wet as we found out earlier this year. Is why I sure wasnt going to go out once the rain started and why the track was quickly closed after Marks incedent.

Blaise - your so going down at DECA. Thats where I'll have my revenge. But that super sprint was heaps of fun - if only you could brake propperly you'd have killed me because there's only 1/2 a car difference between us on the straight strangely enough, and your certainly faster through the first and last corners.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...