Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Remove R32 Rotors

Mr GTS4
 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Front calipers?

1/ Jack up car, put on chasis stands, take wheel off

2/ Undo the large bolts on the back of the caliper that bolt them to the hub. Either 17 or 19mm bolts, 17 I think. Don't undo the ones that hold the two halves of the caliper.

If you need to physically take the calipers off the car you will also need to undo the brake fluid line. If you are only changing the discs just pull the caliper out of the way, cable tie or support it on something other than the brake line.

To undo the brake line you really should use a "flare nut spanner" if you can get your hands on one. It is an open ended spanner with almost a complete circle, only a really small gap for the hose to fit thru.

If you can't get one use an open ended spanner and be * really* careful, the line can be really tight to open and it is easy to crush or strip the nut. You will loose all the brake fluid and need to rebleed everything if you undo the brake line

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

read my thread.. "changing brake calipers from non mspec to mspec" the process is essentially the same.. and it will show you what you need to remove.

sigh, no the photos aren't in there anymore.. i'll put the whole thing up on project32 when i have a spare minute..

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted (edited)

hang on,

thread asks how to remove rotors...

-remove caliper (2 bolts on back that bolt it to hub)

(place caliper somewhere with it still connected to brake line

-pull brake rotor towards you.

That's it... rears can be hard due to drum handbrake, there are 2 bolt holes where you can screw in bolts to push the rotor off.

it will be impossible to fit *longer* rear studs without taking the hub apart, due to the drum brake assembly being in the way.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

haha wish I had read it properly before typing all the extra crap then :D

Re the wheel studs, assuming it is to fit spacers, a better way is to use bolt on spacers which are more secure (bolted to the hub) but still give normal stud length for the wheel

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol thats the funniest start to a tread i'm read.. :angry: ok with just pulling the rotor off you don't have to put two bolts into those little holes between the studs to push it off?? just didn't know what they were for.

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted
lol thats the funniest start to a tread i'm read.. :angry: ok with just pulling the rotor off you don't have to put two bolts into those little holes between the studs to push it off?? just didn't know what they were for.

usually fronts will come off easily without too much force

I had to use those bolt holes for the rear, because the handbrake makes it hard (even with handbrake off...)

  • 11 years later...
sleeper_gtr Enthusiast

sleeper_gtr

Posted
Posted

Hey I know this is opening an old thread. But I'm trying to take off rotors on a R32 gtr and I'm trying to find the exact dimensions of the bolt holes. Anyone know what they are. I've tried a m10 bolt but it seems a little too big. Maybe the pitch is different? I've tried a m10 1.5 and a m10 1.25.
Ps I've taken off the caliper or put to the side and tried to hammer in certain spots to losen/pull off rotor.

Cheers for any help.

1483438967077.thumb.jpeg.f6f7c8fb81315d0 1483438872210.thumb.jpeg.e693d88aafeea58

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

hey good searching at least :) sorry I don't have stock rears to check, did you try an m8 bolt if you think m10 is too large? It's a common thread size from memory rather than something unusual

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

When I took my original rear rotors off they were a bit rusted making it harder to get the bolt in. As per Duncan's comment it's a standard size at least with the OEM rotors.

Maybe give the hole/thread a good clean with some degreaser and a wire brush? 

  • 3 weeks later...
sleeper_gtr Enthusiast

sleeper_gtr

Posted
Posted

Thanks Duncan m8 is what standard gtrs rotors usually take however I Found the bolt. Had to go to a bolt specialist. Apparently these were a m10 in pitch 1.25. This is not standard though. Got them rusty rotors off finally!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • Piggaz
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...