Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if its shaky den it's wheel balance..

I had the exact same problem, took it in for a wheel balance (obvious solution)

When they jacked it up at the shop i had a look and the dick before me had put spacers in (to push the rims out), which was the cause of my tyre hitting the wheel guard at every little bump, but when i took the spacer off i noticed there was no hub locater. The lack of a hub locater meant that the rim had play between it and the hub. Machined up two of these little bad boys and problem fixed =no shake

This will only be a prob (i think) if you have aftermarket rims and if the guy that had the car before you was a dick, or the dodgey dealer you bought your car from was also a dick (had these problems)

Cheers

Or it could be as simple as a wheel balance -- easier fix too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91458-shaky-at-100km/#findComment-1667531
Share on other sites

Wheel alignment will fix how the car travels down the road. If you take your hands off the wheel and the car continues to track straight then the wheels are aligned.

If there are vibrations, then it is probably (with exceptions like mentioned above) going to be wheels out of balance. Most balancing centres can only balance 16-17" rims. I tried to have some 18"s balance and had to have them driven across town to find a big enough balancer. Without casting dispersions upon the guys that did the balance, they may have taken a short cut with your balance if they didn't have the right equipment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91458-shaky-at-100km/#findComment-1671760
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...