Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

main advantage that i can see is the ability to have vents for cooling, not that many of the cars that i see driving around that have carbon fibre bonnets actually require any more cooling than stock...

don't say weight is an advantage, as the weight difference between the carbon fibre bonnets that you can buy retail, and an aluminium bonnet, is next to none...

Its mainly for the 'look at me' wank factor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91912-bonnet-pins/#findComment-1684976
Share on other sites

I'm not sure about the 'retail' cf bonnets being no lighter than the stock aluminium item, surely they are lighter if not only by a little. Aren't the carbon fibre bonnets that you buy 'retail' just a layer of carbon fibre glued on to a fibreglass bonnet anyway? My brother had his cf bonnet fly up while driving (he's got 2 heavy catches to keep it in place now!) and the guy he took it to couldn't believe that you could get a sheet of cf that big (bonnet) for about $1000. True cf would be a weight advantage though wouldn't it?

I guess if you are looking at a cf bonnet to save weight, there's much cheaper alternatives to spending 1 grand. (good bye interior pannels and rear seats!)

"They taste like burning!"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91912-bonnet-pins/#findComment-1690154
Share on other sites

I think full c/f starts at around $4k.

The big issue with c/f bonnets is how they break in an accident, because they shatter instead of fold like metal they can end up coming through the windscreen and seriously injuring the driver and passenger.

But, they look sweet and are pretty cheap at 1k so why not?

You should always get pins with c/f or fibreglass bonnets incase they fracture around the bonnet catch.

Race and Rally sell them in Aus, but I'm pretty sure all the autobarn, super cheap etc etc etc do to. There is nothing to them, pins, catch and 3 rivets so quality is not really an issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91912-bonnet-pins/#findComment-1692788
Share on other sites

You will find that if you rivet the pins to the cf hood they will pull through very quickly as the cf is very "soft" when there is an open edge showing.

I have this problem and i'm going to be fibreglassing some nuts on the inside of the bonnet so i can screw some bolts into :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91912-bonnet-pins/#findComment-1712040
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...