Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

As far as i know, yes, it will fit for you. There is one guy that is using an R33 kit.

Though, dont go ahead and cut a hole in the chassis too quickly, its easy to get a defect. Do what humble will do and use the kit/cooler etc, but get one pipe made custom to go under and then up to the cooler, like my pipes

  • 2 weeks later...

we fitted a 600x300x76 cooler to our stagea.

used a r33 piping kit with some of the standard stagea bends.

fitted up pretty well.

had to cut out sum of the support to make the cooler fit, but overall it wasn't that hard to do.post-25826-1141479214.jpg

Ian

we had the same problem with the drivers side, passenger side was easy

yea no need to cut a hole under the battery.

it took us bout 3 hrs to figure out which bends would go where on the drivers side for the best possible fit with no cutting needed.

only thing we had to do was chop some of the standard plumbing

don't have any pics at the moment but I could get out in the next couple of days and take a few for you.

was not that hard when we sat down and thought it out and then tried and tested several ways til we got it spot on.

Edited by Mum's Taxi

Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

Edited by Talej
Have 90% finished installing my cooler today. I bought an R33 kit from just ja[ for $499 (bit of a bargain if you ask me). Still need to trim the fan then it will be complete.

I didn't bother cutting too much out of the support bar at this stage as I don't think I will really need it yet. Further down the track I will probably open it up again and chop away.

Only problem I had was the AC fan not fitting with the core there. I decided it will just be easier to buy a smaller thermo fan from the wreckers or something. AC isn't essential so I will worry about it later...

and some photos...

post-809-1141557276.jpgpost-809-1141557296.jpgpost-809-1141557316.jpg

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

hey mate easiest option is to chop the front support bar abit to alow it to come forward and therefore keeping the air con fan etc in place. its not visable from outside with bumper on so cops cant defect u or nuthin, and its strong as hell and only holding the bumper.

I didn't do it that way because then the brackets won't line up. Just easier to get a smaller fan.

talej

wat size cooler are you installing?

we installed a 600x300x76 cooler to our stag

and i don't remember havin that problem

as alexcim said you might be best tiltin the cooler

anyway i'll post some pics up this arvo of our engine bay and under drivers side for you humble..

Talej

have you cut under the battery?

can you get some pics of the piping from inside the engine bay and under the car on direvers side too??

listen to me, soo demanding..

PLEEEEASE

thanks

Ian

Yes the piping goes through a hole cut under the batter. I will get some photos for you later...

  • 1 year later...

Any one done a FMIC install with a front facing plenum?

im pretty keen to find out every thing i can, what and where i would need to cut etc please post up any pics you have and show me where the pipes would come through. Also if you could recomend a kit to suit a stagea with a front facing plenum that would be TOPS cheers guys and thanks for any help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...