Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i just installed a Pod Filter, Im just concerned, with it sitting just in the engine bay, is it sucking in to much hot air?

sorry if this has been covered but i just dont wanna damage anything...

cheers

Its ok for it to have hot air, its just better to have it sucking in cold air rather than hot. If it really worries you run some pipes that draw in the cold air, or make up a littlecold air box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92854-air-pod/#findComment-1675739
Share on other sites

yeah, like the original pipe that was running from front of car to air filter i have left for now, but i was just concerned as the FMIC is still stock that the temps would go higher....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92854-air-pod/#findComment-1675803
Share on other sites

this is tricky...pod filter is installed in hope to suck in more air into the engine....

however the disadvantage being, as the engine bay heats up, hot air is being sucked instead of cold air....

warm air has lesser density compared to cold air. Which also means that there will be lesser oxygen content in a meter cube of air in comparison to the more dense cold air. And combustion rely on oxygen in the air...

The intention is good, some ppl install air box or heat shield around the pod filter, however that defeats the initial purpose of trying to suck in more air ~~...so if heat shield were installed, in overall you get air warmer than from the standard cold air induction and a more restricted flow than from a non shielded pod filter. Which ends up pretty much in similar condition to a factor air filter.

I read once in magazine saying that it is actually best to leave the air filter standard esp Vtecs due to the resonance mambo jumbo which I dun really get...

I did get the HKS mushroom tho and my 0-100 speed was a few secs slower than it used to be (RSM)....but I didn't regret switching the filter..I like the breathing sound it makes...suking thing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92854-air-pod/#findComment-1675937
Share on other sites

I read once in magazine saying that it is actually best to leave the air filter standard esp Vtecs due to the resonance mambo jumbo which I dun really get...

NA engines are a little different in that respect. They get affected more by resonance in the intake system. The stock airboxes will tend to have some kind of resonator pipe / chamber which stop it from doing that.

The resonator chamber smooths the airflow out during the entire rev range, which means the power delivery is also a lot more even. I've read that by altering that chamber, you can actually get more top-end power at the expense of low-end. But its the kind of hydrodynamic black art that you'd need a big R&D budget to develop, and that's easy to get wrong and hard to get right.

FI motors, because they tend to forcibly suck air through the induction, are less likely to get that so running a pod filter doesn't affect them as much.

As for heat soak, I'd concur with what everyone else has said. As long as your engine is light tune, its safe but not ideal. I'd recommend obtaining some kind of heat shield and maybe a CAI setup, but its not something that is going to force you to not drive the car until fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92854-air-pod/#findComment-1680299
Share on other sites

silver, did you car come with a stock snorkel that connects to the factory airbox?

My one is nismo so I'm not sure if this i sacutally included with all R34s

If you do have this item, simply place it over the pod and secure it so it doesnt move around and that will bring in fair bit of cold air into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92854-air-pod/#findComment-1680996
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...