Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

never seen auto's on dyno. Why? Is there a tech reason? :D

I've got an Automatic (tiptronic) Skyline and set it on the dyno. No drama's about it

p.s only got auto cos it was hard to find manual with the 4 door R34

dont think they exist..

Ever seen a 2000hp drag car on the dyno - they usually make about 3/4 of that value. To much trans slip to give accurate readings not to mention changes in auto trans fluid temps(varying viscosity etc etc) not good for dyno comps or tuning at high levels of horsepower.

we had an auto r33 at the sau vic dyno day yesterday. was ran in 2nd gear as the auto juggles the power rating all over the place apparently when left in drive. the manuals are done in 4th gear so what power rating the auto gets i would say add %15 more power cos of the 2nd gear ratio? does that seem reasonable ?

You can run a car in any gear and it should give comparable horsepower readings. ie a manual R33 should give about the same power readings in 3 as it would in 4th within about 1-2% depending on the dyno operator. You must remember that dynos measure the rate of acceleration under a specified load and Horse power is a function of Torque and RPM so while lower gears will give a higher torque than a taller gear the RPM of the rollers is less in the lower gears than the higher gears.

Now dyno dynamics specify that their dyno's are accurate between about 80 -140km/hr. So the aim of the dyno operator is to choose a gear that will rev between these points.

Thanx 4 the replys everyone, very useful, Im asking really what i would have to do to get a high HP street car (auto) to be efficient on a dyno as well. Is there options for making an auto box perform well on the dyno? Shift kits etc. Any ideas?

nope. coz as soon as they ramp the power up it kicks back to 2nd anyways..unless u have it manualized.. they'll always do it in 2nd gear for the autos. .... and they seem to strap them down harder than teh manual cars.. coz apparently the auto (car itself) can jump on the dyno from time to time.

autos are the ghey... too much drivetrain loss thru slippage. .. thats just my personal opinion but.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...