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13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


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I ran that sort of time with as few mods, my mph was 101 but my 60ft was 2.1. This is what you can expect from a stockish skyline, as I think there are a few others now with the same results.

It also shows how 10psi is actually a good boost level for the stock turbo'd engine.

I think for refference we should have the time slips posted so people can veiw the hard evidence for standardish performance. It helps to show newbies a quick way to good times without any 'bull' (as they will likely get from their mates and some performance shops).

Your help the other day with your power FC maps were more helpfull than ever! The car is now running well enough to run on the Microtech all the time. There is still some way to go though in checking full load maps at 15 psi. The trouble now is my clutch started to slip with 4 people in the car in 4th gear, on 12 psi, hate to see it on 15psi! What did you end up going for? (I'm not much for brass button unless you can convince me otherwise!):burnout:

Boostd, the only thing more surprising than the speed of you run was the slowness of the 350 escorts. Judging by the slip he didn't back off or abort during the run. I'd be wanting low 11's at a minimum for the hassle of putting 350 in escort.

Good time for you though, your car looks sweet too.

Roy13- I now have a HKS solid centre twin plate clutch. I would highly recommend against it. I rattles like a nothing I`ve heard before, it is almost impossible to start of at the lights without spinning the wheels or stalling and if you try and slip it most of the time it shudders. On the other side of things when you want to go fast its the best clutch I've ever had. I chirp 5th gear quite often. Bottem line if you want drivability buy a OS giken sprung centre stay very clear of solids. If you want out right speed and you don't care if you car sounds and drives worse than a truck, go for the HKS.

DennisRB30- I think the escort had some sort of engine problem...he must have -dunno. he had the bonnet up for a while after but still continued to race later in the day. It's a pretty well known car, the number plate is RTA 350.

  • 1 month later...
Guest silver32t

i think that rev and 2rizmo are both guru's of knowledge and its great that u guys know so much about this stuff. Many arguements on this topic and noone will every agree. I have nothing to comment on about the bov situation and i have yet to purchase my car. Hope i dont run into this trouble though. But u guys will have figured it out by then. Cheers its been an interesting read

I changed my spark plugs last week to NGK Platinums and I must say I was impressed with how smooth the engine was revving. However, at night, after about 4500rpm it started coughing, spluttering and running really rough.

I have had this problem in the past but it wasnt quite as bad and occurrences were few and far between, so I didnt think much of it. It was just strange how it only happened at night. At first I thought maybe it was running a bit lean, but thank god the problem was much simpler than that.

I remembered this thread and how rev210 had his plugs gapped to 0.70mm. I checked my new plugs and found that they were 1.1mm (which I was told is standard?). So I regapped them to 0.75mm. Bad idea! Sounded like the engine was running on 2 cylinders. I then regapped them to 0.85mm and all I can say is MY GOD! The car has never, never, EVER been this smooth all the way to the readline. The application of power is incredible, the engine sounds better, and I can feel a slight increase in performance.

I cannot recommend this more to anyone! If you've got copper plugs I'd gap them to 0.7-0.8 and if platinums 0.8-0.9. You wont believe the difference :uh-huh: . Now, more than ever, traction is my worst enemy.

Get yourself a set of Michelin Preceda tyres, I can't rate them high enuff (nothing really to compare to though).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=Preceda

In a straight line i cannot get these tyres to slip or squeel unless i drop the clutch from high revs.

Guest generic r33

i have an r33 gtst running 11-12 psi (200rwhp) on standard turbo and bov

when i give it a good hammering (or have a full car) it splutters and misses, and effectively runs like shit!

i thought that was too much boost for the standard but sub-zero set it up that way.

any thoughts on prob?

Feeler gages, they are very thin strips of metal of varying thickness and have their individual thickness marked on them. You just put the right ones on top of each other by adding up their thicknesses to make the thickness you need. They can be bought from any auto store and only cost a few dollars. You slide them into the spark plug gap. You should be *just* able to push them through with out using force. If you force them in you can get a wrong reading and/or damage the gages.

Originally posted by generic r33

i have an r33 gtst running 11-12 psi (200rwhp) on standard turbo and bov

when i give it a good hammering (or have a full car) it splutters and misses, and effectively runs like shit!

i thought that was too much boost for the standard but sub-zero set it up that way.

any thoughts on prob?

Let me guess, lots of poping in the exhaust as well? I'd be regapping the plugs. It'll take about 1.5 hours and you wont believe the difference. For a 'stockish' car I now believe that this is one of the most important things to get right if you want to optimize the performance.

Different plugs will need to be gapped to different levels. If you start it up and it sounds like there is a marble rolling round in there SWITCH IT OFF. This means they've been gapped too far (ie you'll need to increase the gap). 0.85mm should be good enough. Copper plugs may handle a smaller gap (0.7-0.8).

I still cant believe that 0.1 of a mmm can make such a HUGE difference!

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