Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

Shielding the pod is a great idea - the majority of air will be coming from the front of the car, the ambient heat from behind the filter basically acts as a contaminant to your nice cool air. The front of your car has a huge high pressure zone when you are moving, so long as you allow a path from there to the filter your car should not be starved in the slightest.

If the air is flowing from the front how is hot air from behind going to 'contaminate' the air flow into the POD?

I'm not saying you are wrong just wondering.

It could be that dyno results which 'prove' a shield is necessary, only do so 'cos the car is not moving (on the dyno) and so no 'cool' air is flowing from the front - w/out a shild the POD is just sucking in air from 360 deg around it which includes hot air around the engine. On the road it won't be like that of course with the 'cool' airflow from the front?

Edited by Battery_backup
so lithium how much rwkw u make at 6.7 psi???

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

Sorry i thought this was about standard times and ratings etc sorry if i got it wrong

The hell kind of question is that? I am pretty sure it made around 180rwkw on 7psi during a very early tune session, ran low 14s like that. I can't run any less than 12psi with the current setup - drag season is coming up, could have a friendly manual versus auto comparison :yes:

Ill do it! Perfect. Fun fun.

line up a v8 with a c4 transmission and same rw power and see what happens

I think you'll find that a typical V8 drag car automatic isn't setup quite the same as what the auto in your GTS25t is, hardly apples for apples. You Best tell the funny car and top fueller guys to get rid of their clutch setups and go torque convertor! Of course you CAN get your Jatco rebuilt to handle some decent power and stall/shift more aggressively so it actually does suit drag racing....

so ur setup only made 20 rwkw on my standard setup lol

I'm not sure what you are getting at or trying to achieve here, if you have something you need help with specify it please. It'll be good to see how you go with the auto - never said it won't go fast, it just could be a challenge unless you have or are going to get it modified to suit what you are doing.

Just for clarifications sake - you made 150rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo and I made 180rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo, and you somehow come with a comment lolling I only made 20rwkw more than your stock turbo? Given I made 30kw @ wheels more than you on the same boost with the same turbo, I am actually struggling to work out what you are going on about.

Edited by Lithium

Ahh right sorry, when I said "I can't run under 12psi with the current setup" I meant with the GT3076R vs the stock turbo - I couldn't run 7psi if I wanted to with the bigger turbo.

Edited by Lithium
how bout 13.061 on stock turbo...stock ecu....only exhuast/fmic/boost......on street tyres as well....2.00 60ft...

Not un-realistic if you get a good run and launch.

It may be a high goal, but im aiming to get as close as possible to a 12.999999 with stock ECU and bolt ons and street tires.

When im convinced i cant do any better only then will i try on some semi slicks.

If you can nearly do it, then so can i :D

yeah....super close to my goal....cant help but be a little disappointed it didnt crack the 12.....but theres no way i could launch any better absolutely no tyre slippage, it just stuck....tyres couldnt hold any of 2nd....chirped 3rds....and the rest is pretty straight forward....

best time on my other r33 was a 13.08 on some pretty used drag slicks....launch was a bit better...1.911 60ft with wheel spin....slipped part of 2nd....chirped third.....trap speed was 4km/h off ^^

but a 12 is possible....bloody difficult....the rest of the runs on that night were around 13.3-13.5....poor launching by comparison...

Interesting..

Only thing i will suffer from is horribly poorly prepped drag strips :D

Not quite the money around down here in NZ involved in the strips. But hey, just a handicap eh? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...