Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What would happen if one removed the rear steering rack with the lines that run into the "junction box" (I've got no idea what to call it!) and simply put 2 bolts into the holes that the lines came out of?

The power steering pump rear rotor would fail

:) cheers :w00t:

Alright guys i took some pics just before (meant to post earlier but got stuck into wiring up the new battery feed >_<)

img13031kp.th.jpg

img13056ud.th.jpg

img13066nh.th.jpg

img13084xc.th.jpg

The hose i got was heater hose as it needs to be oil resistant. And yes i do know there aren't any clamps on the new hose yet, i still have to get them :D

Hope that makes things alot clearer. If you want any more pics, let me know

Hmm...

I recently had the rear steering rack removed and one of Geoff's HICAS lock bars fitted. Where the two hoses were removed along with the rear rack, bolts were inserted to plug the open threaded fittings. I assume from your post Gary that this isn't the correct way to perform the job and will need a hose that runs between these two points in order to keep the fluid flowing?

ok, i have compltely removed everything that looks like or even smells like hicas on my car....First remove rear rack replace with the lockbar...rip out every power steering line that goes to the back of the car and just follow them where they go into the valve system near the plenum...you can completely remove the valve system no worries....remove the pipes that is meant to be a cooler. remove the hicas resoviour, buy a r31 steering pump a a 3 slat belt to suit. you will need a spacer to space the pump away from the block a bit to clear the cam cover....i used a s14/r33 power steering resoviour, all the pipes hook up nicely to the pump from resoviour and steering rack....ok now under the rear parcel shelf there is a silver box that is the hicas ecu...you can unplug that....Now once you have hooked up the new basic power steering system with the r31 pump and new resoviour....you will notice you have very jolty steering and it will be hard to turn the wheel backward and foward quickly and it will feel like shit.....this is wher some people dont know about...BUT if you look on the actual steering rack iteself you will notice that there is a electronic valve on it on the drivers side with 2 wires coming from it....unplgu it and unbolt this solenoid...Watch out cos fluid will piss outta the rack....then you will see 2 holes in the rack that the fliud comes out of what u need to do now is get some steel or alluminium sheet metal only need enough to cover those holes...so cut out a peice and drill 3 holes to bolt the plate to seal these holes.......once sealed you will have very very light steering...make sure you fill the resovoiur up full when you start the car and then watch the fluid or else the steering pump will sound like its scrapping things...and top up as nessecary. NOW what that little solenoid on the steering rack does is bypass the fluid from the rack back to the resovoiur so that you dont get much fluid in the rack creating hard steering....once its covered the fluid stays in the rack causing very light steering....

Anymore questions about it just pm as i have done it all myself.......also i weighed up the sutff that is removed and subtracted the new stuff put in to make this work and it works out to be a 21.5kg loss of weight......so really youll go faster and use less fuel :dry:

What a timely thread discovery! I just pulled all my hicas stuff out of my cefiro as the previous Jap owner had put a lock bar in. He only put nuts on the ends of both hydrolic lines that use to go into the rear Hicas rack - meaning there would be an obvious build up of pressure at the rear end of the car as the fluid couldnt go in a cycle. Let it be said that nearly every seal in my main steering rack must be fked, as i go thru more power steering fluid than I do petrol.

Im currently replacing my steering rack with a s13 or s15 rack, and I will most likely put a tranny oil cooler in and run the rear part of the pump to that.

Im yet to comprehend what sort of piping and fittings i'll need to do this from reading above - but if someone can assit me that would be great.

My idea is to have the rear output of the pump go to the cooler - using about 1m of hose, then from the cooler back to the HICAS resovior. But will this still have too much pressure going back into the resv? I dont want an explosion of fluid everywhere if I can help it!

thanks!

JK

Edited by jaik

i just thought i'd get someone to clarify this before i start hacking away on my power steering lines.

on a r32 gtst, looking at the hicas solenoid in the drivers side of the engine bay...

Line 1 goes from oil cooler to hicas solenoid.

Line 2 comes from bottom of engine bay into the hicas solenoid.

What is the best way to make the connection to line 2? there are no rubber hose sections that I can find, they are all metal screw fittings. Do I unscrew one of the fittings and just hacksaw the screw bit off? What's the best way to approach this?

From what I understood of what sydneykid posted, you can just hoseclamp the rubber hose onto both line 1 and line2, but i can't find where on line 2 that this can be done without hacksawing off one of the screw fittings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...