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Removing Hicas On R32 Gtr

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
i just thought i'd get someone to clarify this before i start hacking away on my power steering lines.

on a r32 gtst, looking at the hicas solenoid in the drivers side of the engine bay...

Line 1 goes from oil cooler to hicas solenoid.

Line 2 comes from bottom of engine bay into the hicas solenoid.

What is the best way to make the connection to line 2? there are no rubber hose sections that I can find, they are all metal screw fittings. Do I unscrew one of the fittings and just hacksaw the screw bit off? What's the best way to approach this?

From what I understood of what sydneykid posted, you can just hoseclamp the rubber hose onto both line 1 and line2, but i can't find where on line 2 that this can be done without hacksawing off one of the screw fittings.

You need to go further back along the pipework, towards the power steering pump.

>_< cheers :)

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Beer Baron
Beer Baron

just so i understand you will then have two feeds going into the cooler? (ie the stock one, plus the feed from the rear pump?).

boomtheroom
boomtheroom

cheers dude!

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MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted (edited)

untitledded8jz.jpg

Gary,

There is a aluminium fitting (17mm bolt thingo) as shown in the diagram about 1cm from the bottom of the red line in the diagram (there is a bracket just above it, I'm currently trying to undo this bolt, but it's being a bitch). I'm assuming this is where we hook up the line. I was expecting to see a rubber hose (like the ones on line 1). How does the new rubber hose hook up to this line? do you need a special fitting, or can you just move back the 17mm bolt/thing and slip the rubber hose over the line?

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
untitledded8jz.jpg

Gary,

There is a aluminium fitting (17mm bolt thingo) as shown in the diagram about 1cm from the bottom of the red line in the diagram (there is a bracket just above it, I'm currently trying to undo this bolt, but it's being a bitch). I'm assuming this is where we hook up the line. I was expecting to see a rubber hose (like the ones on line 1). How does the new rubber hose hook up to this line? do you need a special fitting, or can you just move back the 17mm bolt/thing and slip the rubber hose over the line?

That's the wrong picture, the right one shows the connection further down the pipe work towards the subframe.

:yucky: Cheers :laugh:

Edited by Sydneykid
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

sweet, thanks for the help guys.

I just cut the damn thing in the end. All works fine now (though steering pump made a nice grinding noise when i turned it on, but i turned the wheel a few times and it went away)

I'm having issues removing the tie rods from the rack, if i turn one, the other side turns, i think i'll just remove the rack with the rods attached. Anyway that's something for tomorrow. I better get this working! drift practice at winton on saturday!

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted (edited)
I'm having issues removing the tie rods from the rack, if i turn one, the other side turns, i think i'll just remove the rack with the rods attached. Anyway that's something for tomorrow. I better get this working! drift practice at winton on saturday!

I had the same problem. Mine was on a hoist, so i got 2 bits of pipe to fit over my spanners to get some more leaverage. Then you start undoing one of the tierod ends. Inbetween the tierod end and the big black HICAS bar you will see a smaller silver rod, that rod has 2 sides flattened. Undo the tierod end just enough so you can fit a spaner in there (onto the flattened sides), but leaving the tierod end still on (otherwise the spanner will keep falling off and round the grip off), find someone/somthing to hold that spanner in place. Then you can uncrack the other end.

loktite is great untill you have to undo someting.

It took me ~30mins to do the removing and replacing of the bar, and 3-4 hours trying to undo those stupid tierod ends.

Edited by sav man
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

still struggling with the tie rod end....

I have one end off, and the other end i can't crack, because when i turn it with the shifter, it turns the thing on the opposite end. Can't get a good grip on the flattened sides of the rack.....

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted (edited)

thats why you need boah ends on, cause the loose end keeps the spanner from slipping. you probably need somthing narrower than a shifter, I used a 17mm open-ended spanner.

Edited by sav man
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

yeah, all done! fark that was a pain

i ended up taking off the rod end on the other side and once i had it out, i could get a good grip on both ends and it came eventually.

car is ready for tomorrow's drift practice at winton! now i might pack the car, then relax with a beer. 3am start tomorrow morning :)

ellie Proficient

ellie

Posted
Posted

Can I ask If anyone has encountered any P/S leaks at the new hose joint?

As all the factory hydralic lines have a sealing beed on the end of the pipe work to prevent leaks occuring but by cutting the pipe work it doesn't have this feature!

Pretty sure i have the tool to "squish" the pipe longitudinally but was curious wether any one had had any leakage?

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

i've been checking for leaks regularly, and drove on the track on the weekend. No leaks at all. Geoff's lock bar works a treat also i might add.

Just remember to get a wheel alignment, I knew my alignment was out by a fair bit before i put the lock bar, i think i slightly bent one of the tie rods removing the thing, and we did a rough alignment at the track on saturday (using a tape measure). It was running about 30mm toe on the rear, we fixed that up.... was alot better after that!!

  • 3 weeks later...
salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

ok, so ive been wonderin about lockin hicas on my gts-t with shims like the tomei kit supplies

what size shim do you need?

are lock bars really that much lighter than the old rack?

and after the rack is locked up im assuming you can take all the lines etc off it?

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