Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Hicas On R32 Gtr

oRiCLe
 Share

Recommended Posts

meep Enthusiast

meep

Posted
Posted

here is a couple of pics that you can sort out to show us how to do the HICAS removal is done/fitted,

cheers garry.

-pete

(p.s sorry for the 2mb of pics (for the people on dial-up) i'm drunk and cbf shrinkin the pics, l8r.)

post-12023-1140607188.jpg

post-12023-1140607230.jpg

post-12023-1140607356.jpg

post-12023-1140607396.jpg

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Beer Baron
Beer Baron

just so i understand you will then have two feeds going into the cooler? (ie the stock one, plus the feed from the rear pump?).

boomtheroom
boomtheroom

cheers dude!

Posted Images

meep Enthusiast

meep

Posted
Posted
From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheers :D

OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

post-12023-1140862108.jpg

post-12023-1140862143.jpg

gurglr Enthusiast

gurglr

Posted
Posted
OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

meep Enthusiast

meep

Posted
Posted
Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

sweet thanxs champ,

where will i find the HICAS ECU?

gurglr Enthusiast

gurglr

Posted
Posted
If you remove the HICAS ECU, do you lose the speed sensitive power steering? Cause when the speed sensor wire to my HICAS ECU was cut my steering was in heavy mode all the time.

HICAS ECU is under the parcel shelf in the boot. Steering at very low speed was heavy with the lock bar installed and the ECU still connected. Remove ECU and steering still heavy at < 20kmh but dash light goes out.

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted
As noted in the many pages of my tutorial, extra castor will make the low speed heaviness almost impossible to detect and improve turn in response.

Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

gurglr Enthusiast

gurglr

Posted
Posted
Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

Who said all the time? See my post. Steering is only heavy(er) < 20kmh. All other times its no different. Event with it heavy(er), I dont care as it only marginally heavier anyway.

If you have heavy steering 24/7, best be getting that checked out, cant see a lock bar and re-route fixing anything there.

  • 3 weeks later...
KILL HSV Proficient

KILL HSV

Posted
Posted

ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

meep Enthusiast

meep

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

They are from a R32 RB20DET GTS-4, But i have been informed that the GTS-t, GTS-4 & GTR have all the same HICAS setup :D.

R33, R34 Are diffrent because they are electronic. :P

Edited by meep
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
Not all R32 hydraulic systems are the same.

GTS-T has a shared resivour system. GTS-4 and GTR have a remote resovior system.

Please delete this post, its is WRONG and people will read it and believe it.

The power steering (inc HICAS) reservoir is in the engine bay, on the LHS inner guard just behind the airbox.

The ATTESA reservoir is located in the boot, in the RHS inner guard.

They are in no way joined, shared or common. R32GTST, R32GTS4 and R32GTR power steering systems (inc HICAS) are the same.

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
RedDrifter Experienced

RedDrifter

Posted
Posted

OK guys people are asking about the heavy stearing when the hicus and hicus ec is removed.

Does anyone know what causes the steering to be heavier etc?

Wouldn't this be as simple as finding the corect wire (hicus ecu loom) and roughting it to 12v or ground or what ever it requires to run the steering lighter?

Surely this prob can be rectified?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...