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2.  It is going to weigh more in the exact location that GT-R's don't need more weight.

3.  It is going to take longer for the car to get up to working temperature - more engine wear.

I didnt notice a "great" difference in weight at all to be honest.

My one (as stated earlier) is quite light indeed.

Also, depends on your mannerism, i always warm the car up for a good 4-5 mins before going anywhere. So that can be a mute disadvantage depending on the person

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air flow becomes a problem

that's the primary problem... plus oil coolers, intercoolers etc etc hanging out the front of the car.

Off topic, but I really want to run an oil cooler to the rear, in front of the diff, but worried about pressure drop back there

i have a PWR one in my GTSt, does a great job, i was thinking maybe go a jap one in the GTR as i thought it might be better than a pwr? Can anyone tell me what makes the PWR ones special? i was told by an ARE guy that theirs are better (biased obviously) and that they use a dual pass horizontal flow setup, and vastly improves cooling. Apparently the pwr ones run hot on one side, whilst the other side is cooled more. Can anyone elaborate on this?

bah, its all crap IMO RE: PWR (or race radiators)

People say that cause they are cheaper. One thing, they can be cheap and still be great, as i said, $660... bolt in... even cheaper than the $800 and will do as good of a job.

  • 3 weeks later...
i was told by an ARE guy that theirs are better (biased obviously) and that they use a dual pass horizontal flow setup, and vastly improves cooling.  Apparently the pwr ones run hot on one side, whilst the other side is cooled more. Can anyone elaborate on this?

the horizontal pass radiators are better at cooling due to them forcing the water through to get cooled twice.. goes in the top runs right accross the radiator then falls down then runs back accross the radiator to the water pump pickup...

sad attempt of a diagram of the twin pass radiators attached ..

post-5157-1132749805.jpg

horizontal flow radiators do cool better.. but really when you think of it.. i'd rather keep the factory one for street use.. most of the cores in all the alloy radiators tend to be the same design with the tubes as each other.. (i work in radiator shop sadly(might not be for much longer(shitwork))) so yer if your having over heating problems think about it it might not be your radiator.. could be your thermostat or clutch fan

if your after bling and do some track work than yer go ahead get an thick alloy one for general street use a standard one is more than ample except for when you've got one hell of a thick intercooler sittin in front which the air is struggling to flow thru that let alone your condensor than radiator

  • 1 year later...

Sorry for bringing up an old topic,

I basically pull my radiator out and have it service every start of summer, i'm about to drop mine off for a Radiator place to have it clean.

Today i stumbled accross Jus Jap site and saw their Alloy Radiator for R32gtr with Shrould still in place and only cost $399. I was thinking if i should spend $100 to get my stock radiator service or spend that extra $300 and get a fully sick Alloy one?

Has anyone ever use JusJap one? What's your feed back?

(Note, my stock radiator perform WELL, constant 80degree, raise around 7,8 degrees only because i was stuck in traffic for over 10 mins on a 40+ degree Melb summer)

Today i stumbled accross Jus Jap site and saw their Alloy Radiator for R32gtr with Shrould still in place and only cost $399. I was thinking if i should spend $100 to get my stock radiator service or spend that extra $300 and get a fully sick Alloy one?

Is that the cooling pro ones?

I got one of them last year with the top and bottom hoses to match. No probs with old radiator but for track and drag i will help in the long run.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117584

Thickness of top tank is 40mm, radiator width is a little less if I remember correctly. Shroud did not fit back onto mine :pirate:

Is that the cooling pro ones?

I got one of them last year with the top and bottom hoses to match. No probs with old radiator but for track and drag i will help in the long run.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117584

Thickness of top tank is 40mm, radiator width is a little less if I remember correctly. Shroud did not fit back onto mine :pirate:

Yes that was it.

So shroud could not come back? They claim that it can retain the shroud.

Also did you notice any different in temputure wise?

Cheers

Just got my CoolingPro from justjap installed, $400. Very hot, very humid day today on the gc, let it idle for 30 mins and didn't get over 86C, then immediately thrashed it and the temp didn't budge, drove it home this arvo, still quite hot and it sat on 80C even after i went up a long hill in 5th winding up to 11psi for 10 secs (2500-3500rpm). Oh, and this is all without the shroud for now (need a 33 one). Can't see any reason why it won't fit although the fan is fairly close. But then again I have a 33 one modified to fit in my HR31 with custom brackets... so it's not exactly your regular application.

Comparing to a PWR, the core looks exactly the same, it doesn't seem to be baffled, but for the performance i'm getting so far on the hottest day this summer, the price is right. :( I know mid 80C doesn't sound great, but you obviously don't want your car running cold, and the thermo only starts to open at 78, so really it's about stability. Idealy you want something that stays below 90C under any conditions. It's looking like I just got that for $400.

Edited by aDrew_C

With the radiator I added a Nismo 62 degree thermostat and radiator cap as well. Temps are never above nominal half way point on the guage.

The end parts of my shroud would bend and then the screw holes would not match up so I left if off.

The top hose from JJR was also a bit too long so I had to cut about an inch off to get it to fit.

post-13111-1169600214.jpg

With the radiator I added a Nismo 62 degree thermostat and radiator cap as well. Temps are never above nominal half way point on the guage.

The end parts of my shroud would bend and then the screw holes would not match up so I left if off.

The top hose from JJR was also a bit too long so I had to cut about an inch off to get it to fit.

Maybe you should leave the shroud on so air can concentrate into the block instead of divert out everywhere!

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