Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OKey dokey peeps

My clutch and i assume clutch...make a rattly noise.

Okay car is idling , i am standing in front of it and i can hear this rattle,squeak, loose sounding noise. Then jump in the car and you can still hear it, and then i just touch the clutch pedal and move it in like 1cm and the noise stops. This would seem like the cable or the something or other is slightly loose.

I have no clue what the noise is. so if anyone in perth is mechanically minded and would love to help me figure out what this is then that will be awesome. for everyone not in perth any suggestions would be fantastic.

Umm i am sure that the car has a standard clutch but is there any way for me to know without taking anything out completely.

thanks

RiaZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9375-my-turn-for-clutch-issues/
Share on other sites

Its either thrust bearing or input shaft bearing. Dont worry it aint chronic and nothing is gonna break just change them both when you get a new clutch. (Id be more inclined to believe it is your input shaft bearing as your thrust bearing will not make noise unless you clutch pedal is pushed.)

I know its annoying but dont lose sleep over it its just noise...

My box makes a similar noise from the sounds, the RB20 box seems to have a rep for being weak. Anyway, my dad, a mechanic of 20 years experience believes its the main input shaft bearing thats worn.

My reverse shaft bearing is also rooted. Put it in reverse and leave the clutch down and it makes an awful racket going backwards, but bring the clutch up to actually engage reverse and move backwards it makes the standard reverse whine you hear in any car.

Like i was told, if your not experiencing any problems when driving such as it popping out of gear, or abnormal clutch slip etc.. then youve probably not got alot to worry about clutch/box wise in the immediate future.

Just bear in mind that long term it may warrant a box rebuild, or at the very least the worn bits replaced.

Either that or youve just got a heavy duty clutch of sorts :)

Red17

hey guys, thanks for the responses. i get paranoid when stupid ccrap noises start exposing themselves. (damn george michael sounds) anyone get that LOL

anyways to add fuel. it also shudders (only way i can explain it) when the car is cold and i am trying to engage first etc.

does this concur with the thrust bearing thing.

Seriously if i had a hoist how mechanically hard is it to rip this puppy off.

will a rebuild kit to the trick. i hate rattles!!!!!

Vspec mate I will catch you shortly, i will call first.

Mine also shudders when its cold... not violently, but just a faint one. I believe this is pretty standard cold clutch syndrome which occurs in most cars to a certain amount.

Is it the sort of thing that feels like its shaking the car apart? Or just a faint shudder? Mine only seems to do it very occasionally. I KNOW my clutch is in good nick since ive had the engine out recently. So perhaps its normal :)

Red17

  • 3 months later...

red17.. I get that awful noise while reversing too.. when clutch is down and its rolling (but still engaged) is there a fix to that? or is a new box needed soon?

in terms of all the other noises and crap.. i seem to be getting that too.. in forward gears.. makes a slight rattling noise of things whirring and that..

cold clutch thing.. i get that too.. dissapears when it gets warm..

Box has to come out in order to fix it. Not worth doing anything about it really unless your having trouble keeping it in reverse eg: its popping out or you cant engage it

No need to buy a NEW box as such, 90 percent of parts on a gearbox are relatively easily rebuilt. I think car companies presume that a car will go through at least 1 box rebuild in its lifetime so they make it all replaceable.

Rebuild should cost you anywhere between 400-900 depending on whats needs replacing. Theyre fairly labour intensive items.

Once again the Rb20 box weakness trait raises its ugly head.

Good luck

Red17

Originally posted by NO_RSPECT

anyways to add fuel. it also shudders (only way i can explain it) when the car is cold and i am trying to engage first etc.

dont worry, mine does this too, and so did my old r33. only in winter when its cold and u start it in the morning... after 1 or 2 starts in 1st it should go away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...