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Have run all the test and results seem to be fine....will try some different resistors in the internal sensor socket tomorrow.

I am fairly certain the compressor in my car is not turning on or the magnetic clutch is not engaging. When I had the system filled with gas the air con guy said it wasn't engaging and showed me etc. How do I bypass the air con relay to eliminate this as a problem? Has anyone else had similar problems with their compressor?

Hi,

I've taken the glove box off, can someone tell me what the 2 holes are here left and right of screen that previous owner has stuffed with tissue paper please?

Thanks

Mine only flashes fault code 26 once in 5 attempts, otherwise it's 25 (undecover)

BUT the first posts say 42 is full cold, mine doesn't do that until 43 when cycling thru ambient button

Cheers

Simon

IMG_0185.jpg

My air con has never worked since i brought my car, they guy said, it had the gas taken out when it came over here

so im going to get new gas next week so thought id do that test and i got

30.5, 30.0, 29.0, 28.0 does this look like all the sensors are okay? and just needs a regass?

  • 2 weeks later...

This is what really throws me off about the A/C, Everything else has been done, re-gassed all the components have been looked over and are fine.

When i turn the car on and hold down the off button on the climate control it enters diagnostic mode, then when i go to press the heat button and cycle through 41-47 fan and vent test the A/C compressor comes on and cold air shoots through the vents like it should.

But when i have the CC in normal operation and press the A/C button it doesn't come on and cold air doesn't come through ? Does this mean the CC unit is faulty ? I can't think of what else it could be.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi i bought my r33 last month and the problem with the car is that cold air is blowing into the car even with a/c turned off. so i have a look under the hood and found out that the compressor is running even when i have the a/c switched off. to protect my compressor i pulled the a/c fuse and that eventually stop the compressor. i took the a/c relay out and found out that the relay is getting the signal with the a/c on or off. so i would think the relay is ok and might be wiring problem before the relay or climate control? i haVe No iDea. aNyone have any idea what the problem might be? really need the a/c working... so hOt thanks very much

  • 7 months later...

hey guys, firstly great write up....very handy..

did this test on my driveway was wondering if you could help me out... my car constantly blows hot air, even if the ac is on...i may have more then one problem i che3cked the blend door rod thing, and it doesnt seem to move at all when im changing the cold/hot controls..

i then did the test and these were the results...

stage 1.... (fault codes) - 21 ( outside temp sensor), 22 (inside temp sensor) and 25 (did this in full sun so thats why that fault came up)

stage 2... 3, then followed by 30 (supposedly 30 is normal?) unsure what the 3 is..

stage 3...41-47 all work fine...

stage 4... (sensor test) 5 (outside temp), -30 (inside temp), 20.5 (suction temprature), 17 (refrigerant temp)

it looks as though (through common sense) that the reason it is blowing hot air, is because it is sensing it is 5 degrees out side and minus 30 inside and trying to warm me up... when in actual fact it is about 24 degrees outside and 4000 inside.

just wanting to know if i can fix this by using the resistor method as shown here??

also if i put it on fast cool mod (FC) it blows colder air but still not icy cold...more ambient temp...

any help would be great!!!!

My R33 A/C stopped working today so I found this thread and did the diag test on it.

It came up with, stage 4, 25, -25 which I assumed is because the 33's only have 2 sensors, so I disconnected both one at a time and found it was the inside one (its behind the little hole with bars on it next to steering column) and got the same reading, so I put it all back together and got stage 4 25, 28 which meant to me that its working again. So that was good but still no A/C and a retest came up with -26 on the first stage, so now im planning to investigate THAT. I let you know what I find.

Edited by R33S2
  • 2 weeks later...

I went to 2 different aircon mobs and each told me a slightly different thing, all agreed that my compressor works by jumping it, one couldnt even guess at what was next, Chris from Audio express was very helpful and found that the signal wasnt reaching the compressor but didnt know if it was the sender or pickup as there is enough gas to activate it, Neil's Auto Electrics (mt gravatt 07 33431143) rebuilt his bros 33 and couldnt get a signal from the cpu and said there were 2 things it could be the climate control or a valve stuck,

he offered to install a thermostat that would operate normally with the climate control but Im going to try a another one first, when I find someone willing to let me test thiers.

Edited by R33S2
  • 2 months later...

try stuffing paper into the plug thingy, that's what i did.. air is cold, but is there a more permanent fix?

pull out the actuator which the rod is clipped onto. (its behind the headunit and climate control on the back wall. Once you got it out. Crack it open, resolder the joints to the plug. Problem solved.

If you dont have the experience to resolder it, just rip it out and PM me

  • 3 weeks later...

Ive just read through this whole thread and I think it has helped me find the prob with my aircon. Im getting a reading of -30degrees on the evap temp sensor. I have read that you have to pull the whole dash out to get the evaporator out, but does anyone know if you can get to the sensor without pulling the whole dash out?

I also found this on another site while looking for info. It has the same info as listed in this thread but it also has the error codes for the motor door check section of diag mode (highlighted in red). I cant remember seeing this info in this thread. Hope it helps someone

-------------------------------------------------------------------

"Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty.

Mode door position check

(This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display.

If normal, a "30" is displayed.

If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows:

30: Normal

31: VENT

32: B/L (Bi level)

34: FOOT

35: DEFROST/FOOT

36: DEFROST

Actuator operation check

By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex, and will be expanded upon when a manual can viewed.

Sensor recognition check

Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty.

Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32):

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed.

Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem!

Calibration

If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature.

While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33). "

  • 9 months later...

my climate control will only blow hot or warm air. i then unplugged the cabin temp sensor and now it only blows ambient/outside air,

anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help?

-26 = blend door fault.

and my sensors

22.5

22.5

32

-30

checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

Edited by RBish

my climate control will only blow hot or warm air. i then unplugged the cabin temp sensor and now it only blows ambient/outside air,

anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help?

-26 = blend door fault.

and my sensors

22.5

22.5

32

-30

checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

-30 is your problem. one of your sensors is stuffed and the climate control doesnt know what to do.

I think this thread explains how to fix it?

i had only just plugged the interior sensor in when i did the first test so i went for a drive round the block parked up and re did the test again a few hours later altho no wit was dark and i got 25 & 26 error codes so this ok as its dark now and i have found the dodgy blend door actuator. the interesting part is the sensor test has changed

20

25

-23

26.5

this is showing that the plug behind the glove box needs a resistor

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